Tag Archives: sweater

6th Sunday Giveaway

This Sunday I am pleased to present several crochet publications.  McCall’s Needlework and Crafts was a popular magazine when I was in my teens.  Their pages were filled with knit and crochet projects, other needlework, sewing, and crafts.  Everything was beautifully presented and the projects were sophisticated and well designed.  I’ve managed to pick up a few copies at flea markets but they are very hard to find.  The copy below is a library edition with a hard cover.  There is also an Options leaflet and an edition of Interweave Crochet.  Please indicate group I or II when you contact me.

Group I




 The following group includes 2 vintage crochet publications and 1 issue of Crochet Today.  Comment or email me if you are interested in this group.


Group II





If you have received free items in the past, please let somebody else have a chance this week. :-)


Posted by on April 18, 2010 in crochet


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Apres Ski Sweater

My Apres Ski Sweater turned out very well.  The alternating single crochet and double crochet pattern is attractive with this yarn, Red Heart Eco Ways.  As mentioned in an earlier post, Melissa Leapman, the designer, fashioned the hip area smaller than the bust area.  This didn’t work for me so I changed the shaping to include a narrower waist and hip and bust measurements that were equal.  If I were to make this again, I would put some wide ribbing along the bottom.  The bottom edge has very little give.  I love the big turtleneck, though.  This sweater is very warm and could almost be worn without a coat on a cold day.  The pattern is in Crochet Today magazine.


Posted by on March 5, 2010 in crochet, Projects


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Snowy Day WIPs

There’s nothing like a snow day to help you make some headway on those works in progress.  The Gold Nugget Tweed Throw is worked with Red Heart Fiesta.  This yarn has beautiful flecks of jewel-toned colors throughout.  The pattern calls for black Fiesta with additional skeins of solid black, off-white and honey in Red Heart Soft.  My living room colors are mainly browns and golds so I swapped out the black skeins for brown combinations.  The throw is already stunning.  It works up very easily but there are lots of ends to weave in so I’m doing that as I go along.

Melissa Leapman is a great crochet designer.  Her patterns never fail to be classy and classic at the same time.  Her instructions are easy to follow.  She avoids phrases like the dreaded ” work right side like left side, reversing shaping”.  Instead, she give detailed instruction for each side of a sweater.  Her Apres Ski Sweater pattern published in the most recent issue of Crochet Today is one example of her timeless style.  As I was reading over the pattern, however, I noticed that the shaping is a bit unusual.  She has the waist area larger than the hip area.  Knowing in advance that this will be a huge no-no for me, I altered the pattern to include a little decreasing in the waist.  I kept the bust and hip measurement  the same. 

Red Heart Eco Ways yarn is made with recycled polyester and acrylic.  I like to be able to machine wash my sweaters so I tend to favor synthetic yarns.  The Cinnabar color of Eco Ways contains little flecks of undyed fibers.  This appears a lot like lint in the sweater as you work the project.  It’s not enough to give a tweed look but just enough to make it look like you washed it with a terry cloth towel.  I don’t know if this is normal for this yarn or is just happening with the color I chose.  I don’t really like this effect.  Maybe some of you who have used this yarn will tell me if you have had the same problem.


Posted by on February 5, 2010 in crochet, Projects


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October Coat

This Fisherman’s Wool was on sale at JoAnn’s after Christmas.  They only had 4 skeins left but there are about 460 yards on each skein.  The October Coat by Oat Couture required 2085 yards in my size.  What to do…After inspecting the pattern closely I decided on the following changes:

1.  Shorten the coat to 24″

2.  Make the garment straight instead of A-Line

3.  Reduce the number of bobble rows used as trim

4.  Add buttons and buttonholes down the entire front

5.  Extend the collar around to the front bands and change the collar pattern to the ribbed stitch

The popcorn trim on the bottom of the coat was not only tedious to work, it also used huge quantities of yarn.  Each stitch took three double crochet stitches.  I also discovered that popcorn rows are much wider than an ordinary row even though you are using the same hook size.  This is because you are placing three stitches in every one!  Therefore, after much experimentation and a lot of unraveling, I settled on working the body of the coat with the next larger hook size.  The coat, which is now a sweater, is partly finished and waiting for the sleeves.



Posted by on January 11, 2010 in crochet, Projects


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Charli’s Sweater is Finished!

As I wrote previously, I was having a bit of a problem with fit while making this sweater for my granddaughter, Charli.

Charli is a beautiful young lady of 8.  However, size 8 or 10 clothes do not fit her.  I decided to alter this free pattern and redesign it as a cardigan.  I also increased stitches at the sides so that the sweater became a “swing” style.  This enabled the fronts to cover her belly.  So that the fronts could hang free, I added 4 acrylic star buttons just below the neckline.  I won’t see Charli until Christmas Eve so I had to use my mannikin as a model.

The yarn I used is Moda Dea Eclipse in mauve.  This yarn is a blend of  60% extra fine wool and 40% nylon.  It is very soft and was easy to work with. It will need to be dry cleaned or hand washed.  In the photo below, you can see the pretty acrylic star buttons.


Posted by on November 29, 2009 in Projects


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Charli’s Sweater

I owe my 8 year old granddaughter, Charli, a sweater.  Charli is a little bit rotund in the middle so my first try was too tight across her belly.  I decided to alter the pattern by making it into a swing-type cardigan instead of a pullover.  I’m still working on it so we’ll have to see what other changes will be made as I go along.

1 Comment

Posted by on November 26, 2009 in Projects


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Mens Collage Cardigan



Comment 12/7/10:  I’d like to make all of you who are making this pattern aware of the problems I had with Red Heart Collage.  The yarn stretched terribly and pilled so badly that the sweater was beyond repair a few months after I made it.  I would recommend instead that you use a nice sturdy worsted weight yarn.  Several crochet friends have had very good results with this.  Also, to avoid the stretching problem, you might want to try crocheting through both loops of each stitch instead of just one.

I designed this mens cardigan after trying to use  His and Her Outdoor Sweaters and to modify that pattern into a V-Neck Cardigan.  Because the pattern called for Red Heart Collage, which is a self-striping yarn, I decided to go with that, forgetting that self-striping yarn is not ideal for patterns with multiple pieces because the stripes never match across the front.

In my Mens Collage Cardigan, the back and fronts are worked side-to-side so that matching the stripes is not an issue.  The sleeves are still worked from the bottom up.  The V-neck  is formed by crocheting successively shorter rows.  This pattern is actually quite simple but it does require a knowledge of post stitches.  You can make the cardigan larger or smaller by simply crocheting fewer rows on the backs and fronts.


Size: Finished chest 48″

Materials: 6 skeins Red Heart Collage Yarn in Blue Wave; 3.5 oz, 218 yds, 200 m, 6  1″ buttons, Size J and size H crochet hook, tapestry needle, stitch markers 

Stitches used:  Single Crochet (SC),Half-double crochet (HDC), Front loop half-double crochet (FLHDC), Front post double crochet (FPDC), Back post double crochet (BPDC)

Gauge: 13 stitches = 4″ and 9 rows = 4″

Overview:  The back and fronts of this sweater are worked from side-to-side.  The sleeves are worked from the bottom up.  The back is one large rectangle.  The fronts are rectangles with decreases to make the V neck.  The sleeves have increases on each side from wrist to shoulder.


With J, chain 73.  HDC in 3rd ch from hook and into every ch across.  Ch 2, turn. (71 stitches) Mark as right side.

Row 1: Front loop half-double crochet in the front loop of the second stitch (FLHDC) and in ea st across to last st. Hdc in last st.  Ch 2, turn.

Rows 2-54: Repeat row 1 until you have completed 54 rows or the back measures 24 inches across.  Fasten off.

Left Front

Chain 73.  Work as for back until piece measures about 7″ in width. Do not ch 2. Turn.Mark 1st row as right side.

Shape Neck

Row 1: Slip stitch across first three stitches. Work in pattern to end of row. Ch 2, turn.

Row 2: Work in pattern to last 3 sts.  Leave last 3 sts unworked, do not chain, turn.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 11 rows or piece measures 12″.  Your last row should have 38 stitches.  Fasten off.

Right Front

Work as for left front, reversing neck shaping.

Sleeve ( make 2)

For cuff Ch 34. HDC into 3rd ch from hook and into ea ch across. (31 stitches) Ch 2, turn. Mark as right side.

Row 2: FPDC into second st, *BPDC into next st, FPDC into next st*.  Work from * to * across to last st. HDC into last st. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: BPDC into second st. *FPDC into next st, BPDC into next st*. Work from * to * across to last st. HDC into last st. Ch 2. Turn.

Rows 4-6: Repeat rows 2 and 3 alternately. Ch 1 instead of ch 2 at end of row 6. Cuff made.

Body of sleeve

Row 1: FLHDC into ea st across. Ch 2, turn. (31 sts)

Row 2: (increase row) 2 FLHDC in first st, FLHDC into ea st across to last st. 2 FLHDC in last st. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Work even in pattern.

Repeat rows 1-2 five more times.

Row 14: Repeat row 3.

Row 15: Repeat row 2.

Row 16 -17: Repeat row 3.

Continue to work in pattern, increasing at both sides every 3rd row until piece measures 20″ from start of body of sleeve.  Fasten off.

Joining: Weave in all yarn ends with tapestry needle.  With right sides facing each other, pin fronts to back at shoulders, taking up about 7″ on back and making sure that the stitch pattern is running vertically on back.  Whip stitch shoulder seams together.  On top of each sleeve, mark the center point with a stitch marker.  with right sides facing each other , pin the marked center point of the sleeve on the shoulder seam of the front and back.  Make sure that about 11.5″ of sleeve lie on either side of the seam.  Also, make sure that the corner of the top of the sleeve reaches the same point on the front, as well as the back.  When everything looks even, pin the sleeve in place and whipstitch the seam.  Repeat with the other sleeve.  Fold the sweater in half along the center line of the sleeves, right sides facing each other and pin the side seams.  Whipstitch the side seams bing sure that the underarm corners match.

Bottom Ribbing: With the H hook, and the left front facing you, attach yarn at the bottom left front corner.  Work 39 HDC along bottom row edges of left front, 84 HDC along row edges of back, and 39 HDC along bottom edge of right front, ch2, turn. Continue to work rib pattern as directed for sleeve cuff for 6 rows around the bottom of the sweater. Fasten off.

Neckline Trim: With H, on right side, attach yarn at corner of right front neck edge. Ch1, sc in same space. Sc 37 sts on front neck, 32 across back neck, and 38 down left front neckline.  Ch1, turn. (107 sts)

Row 2: Sk 1st sc. sc in ea st across to last st. Sk last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Repeat row 2

Rows 4 and 5: Work as row 2 and in addition, dec 1 st at ea shoulder seam. (95 sts) Fasten off.

Front Bands: Right Front:

Row 1: Attach yarn to bottom corner st of right front.  Work 50 sc along right front edge. Ch1, turn.

Rows 2-5: Repeat row 1. Do not ch 1 at end of row 5. Fastern off

Left Front: Attach yarn at top corner of left front.  Work as row 1 of right front.

Row 2: Work as row 2 of right front.

Row 3: Sc in 1st 2 sts. Ch2, sk 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts. *ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts*. Work from * to * to last st. Sc in last st. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in ea st. When you get to the ch2, sc around 2 chs. Continue to end of row, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Work as row 2. Fasten off.

Blocking: Because of the way the neckline was fashioned, it might be necessary to do some light blocking around the neck.  Be careful not to over-steam the fiber.  Simply straighten the neck and gently pat the steam into the fabric.

Sew buttons under the buttonholes on the right front band.

Copyright: Carol A. Wolf, October 1990


Posted by on October 14, 2009 in Projects


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