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Easy Dolman Jacket–New Fall Project

I’m not crazy about self-striping yarn and I virtually never wear anything striped.  Last spring I was looking for tweed yarn and Smiley’s happened to have a sale on Filatura Lanarota acrylic/wool blend yarn. I really liked the looks of that tweed yarn so I ordered 18 skeins in color 7991.  When I began to work with it last week I noticed that this yarn is self-striping as well as tweed!  Oh well…if I don’t like the end result I can always give it away!

My figure just loves dolman sleeves.  The extra roominess under the arm provides a slimming effect and minimizes my large bust.  In the interest of offering a pattern that will be easy to work, I decided to keep this jacket modular but enhance the neck with a collar.  The dolman sleeves will require some increases but the stitch pattern makes this very simple as well.  I’m using a K hook so that the worsted weight yarn will not result in a stiff fabric.  Modifications to this pattern might be patch pockets, straight sleeves with a rolled up cuff, and omitting the collar.  Stay tuned to see how this comes out and to get the pattern once it is completed.

Fitted Jacket

Now that fall is on its way, I’ll be revisiting my WIP from last spring, the  gold fitted jacket.  There is nothing so detrimental to a project as discontinuing to work on it when it is only half finished.  By the time you pick it back up, you have forgotten nearly everything that you had planned to write down!  I did take some extensive notes but my notes have a way of being illegible and unintelligible after six months!  Well, we’ll see what happens.   I’ll really put my mind to this project–after I finish the Dolmen Jacket!

 

 
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Posted by on September 5, 2011 in crochet, Projects

 

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Bike Chain Car Coat Pattern

 

This coat is worked from side-to-side beginning with the left center front.  The shoulder seams are crocheted together, the collar and bottom bands are worked and then the sleeves are seamed and set in last. Although the stitch pattern and basic construction for this coat is easy, the blocking  and addition of a zipper makes it more difficult so I am assigning it an “intermediate” level of difficulty.

Size: 50″ at Bust and Hips

Materials: 17 sk Naturally Caron Country 185 yds, color 0017 Claret,  Crochet hooks sizes B and G, 25″ zipper (or length of your choice to conform to length of  center  front ),  (2) 17/16″ buttons, stitch markers, yarn needle, sewing needle, matching thread, stainless steel straight pins.

Gauge:  18 sts equal 4″ in bike chain pattern, 16 rows = 4″ in bike chain pattern

Stitches used: chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), single crochet 2 tog (sc2tog), front post single crochet (fpsc), double crochet (dc)  

Bike Chain Pattern: 

Row 1:  Dc into ea st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 2:  Sc into top of 1st dc. *Sc around post of next dc (fpsc), sc into top of next dc*. Repeat from * to * to end, placing last sc into top of tc from previous row. Ch2, turn. Ch2  counts as a dc here and throughout the pattern.

These 2 rows make up the bike chain pattern henceforth called a “pair”.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Left front

With G hook, ch 94 ( not loosely).

Sc into the top 2 loops of 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. (93 sc) Ch 2, turn.

Work bike chain pattern. Mark 1st dc row as right side of fabric. Work a total of 5 pairs.  You will have a sc row as your last row.  Fasten stitch with a stitch marker.

Increase for Shoulder

With another ball of yarn, attach yarn with a sl st at 1st sc of last row ( opposite end from your stitch marker). Ch 15. Fasten off.

Next row: Go back to the stitch marker and insert your hook into the last stitch you worked and continue in the bike chain pattern by working your next dc row. Dc into ea sc and into the top 2 loops of ea ch to end of row (increase made–107 sts total)

Continue to work the bike chain pattern until the front piece measures about 11″ wide or 21 pairs total rows.  Make sure you end with a sc row. Fasten off.

Decrease for Armhole

Turn. Sk 44 sts. Join yarn with a sl st at 45th st.  Dc into same place as joining.  Work a dc row. (63 sts)  Continue in bike chain pattern until piece measure 2″ from beginning of armhole ( your 1st dec. row).  End with a sc row. Do not fasten off, secure your last st with a st marker.

Increase for Back

With another ball of yarn, attach yarn with a sl st in first st of row just worked (opposite end from your st marker). Ch 45. Fasten off.  You will have 44 chs.

Go back to your secured st and work a dc row across all sts and all chs (107 sts).  Continue to work in bike chain pattern until the back measures 22″  between the back edges of the armholes or you have completed 42 pairs. Work one more dc row.

Decrease for Armhole

Continue to work in bike chain pattern, working the next sc row over 63 sts. Ch 2, turn. When armhole is the same width as left front, end with a sc row and secure your last stitch.

Increase for Shoulder

Attach another ball of yarn at  the 1st  st of the sc row just finished (opposite end from your secured st). Ch 45. Fasten off. You should have 44 chs.  Go back to your secured st and work a dc row across all sts and all chs. (107 sts).  Work in bike ch pattern until you have a total of 16 pairs. Work one more row of dc. Fasten off.

Shape Neck

 Turn. Sk 14 sts. Attach yarn at 15th st.  Work bike chain pattern until center front section measures the same as for left front.  Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Sleeves (make 2)

With hook G, ch 54 ( not loosely) Sc top 2 loops of ea ch across. Ch 2, turn. (53 sts)

Work a sc row in bike chain pattern.

Work a dc row in bike chain pattern.

Work a sc row in bike chain pattern.

Inc. Row:  2 sc into top if 1st dc. Fpsc around post of next dc.  Work in pattern to last 2 dc.  Fpsc around post of next dc. 2 sc into top of last dc. ch2, turn.

Continue to work in bike chain pattern working an inc. row ever 4th row ( every other sc row).  I like to mark my inc. rows with a st marker so that I can see where my last increase was made.  Work 33 pairs or until sleeve is the length you desire.  End with a sc row.  Note: If you like your sleeves longer and want to work more rows, do not work any more increases.  Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Blocking

It is now time to block your work.  The blocking process is necessary because this pattern causes the fabric to skew to one side.  Please refer to this post  for more detail about how to block your coat.  DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!

Once your coat has been blocked you can join the shoulders.  Place the body of your coat on a table, right sides together.  I like to take some scrap yarn and separate it into 2-ply strands.  I knot the ends together and wind it into a ball.  Now I will use this thread to crochet the shoulder seams together.  You will note from the photo that I have used little girls’  hair clips to keep the pattern pieces from shifting.  Attach your yarn at the end of one shoulder and with hook B, sc across shoulders making sure that you catch both pieces with your hook,  that your rows match and that your work lies flat.  Do the same with the other shoulder.  Weave in all ends.  You can also sew your shoulder seams together if you wish.

Bottom Band

1)   Attach yarn with a sl st on wrong side at bottom right front corner. With hook G, Sc in same place as joining. Sc across bottom of coat placing 1 sc into the end of ea sc row and 1 sc into the end of ea dc row. Work about 186 sts making sure that you end up with an even number. Do not fasten off. Ch 8, turn.

2)   Dc in 3rd ch from hook and into top 2 loops of ea ch and into ea st across (193 sts).  Make sure you have an odd number of stitches.  Ch 1, turn.

3)   Work a sc row of the bike chain pattern to last dc. 2 sc into last dc. Ch 2, turn.

 4)   2 Dc in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, dc to end of row.

5)   Work  a sc row to  ch 3 sp, 3 sc into ch 3 sp, to last 2 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 dc.

6)   Work 2 more rows of the bike chain pattern ending with a sc row. Do not fasten off. Sc 10 sts around end of tab. Join with a sl st in corner where tab meets body of coat.  Fasten off.

Collar

1)   With G, ch 7. Join chain with a sl st to corner st on wrong side of  left front neck edge. Sc in same st as joining. Sc around neckline placing 1 st in the end of ea sc row and 1 st in the end of ea dc row. Sc 2tog at corners. Ch2, turn. (7 chs plus 68 sc)

2)   Work dc row of bike chain pattern across 68 sts and 7 chs. (75 dc) Ch 1, turn.

3)   2 sc in 1st  dc, fpsc around post of next dc, sc in next dc.  Continue in pattern to end of row. Ch2, turn.

4)   Dc across row to last 6 sc. Ch 3, sk 3 sc, dc in ea of next 2 sc, 2 dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn.

5)   Sc 2 tog over 1st two dc. Fpsc over next dc.  Continue in pattern to finish the row.

6)   Work a dc row. Fasten off.

7)   Turn. Attach yarn with a sl st on wrong side at bottom corner of buttonhole tab where the tab meets the body of the coat.  Sc in same place as joining.  Work 11 sc around tab to last row worked. Sc in top of 1st dc, fpsc around next dc, continue in bike chain pattern to end of row.  Fasten off.

Zipper and Joining Sleeves

With zipper closed, place bottom plastic end of zipper under center front edges having front edges meeting in center of zipper.  Make sure that plastic selvage at bottom is not visible  from the right side.  Pin in place.  Open zipper and hand-sew to coat with matching thread.  Turn upper edge of zipper under and stitch in place. 

With right sides together, center underarm sleeve seam in bottom of armhole.  Clip or pin in place.  Continue around sleeve, clipping it to the armhole  and making sure that it is lying flat.  Crochet through both thicknesses using the size B hook or sew sleeve seam being careful not to make seam too tight.  Repeat with the other sleeve.

Finishing

Sew buttons in place on front band and collar under buttonholes.

Note:  I  promised to include a diagram but am having trouble with my drawing program. Below is a small graphic of the body of the coat.  If you click on the drawing, you will be able to see the dimensions.

Copyright: Carol Wolf November 2010

 
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Posted by on November 6, 2010 in crochet, Projects

 

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Men’s Bike Chain Hat and Scarf

 

I developed a stitch recently that I have been using in designing a car coat.  I am sure that this stitch is not original but I have decided to call it the “bike chain pattern”.  My car coat is about half finished but it will take me some time yet to get it just right.  In the meantime, I thought I’d make up a scarf and hat for Paul.  This pattern is very rugged looking and is perfect for any male accessories.  The texture traps air and makes for a particularly warm garment.  I used Paton’s Classic Wool in dark grey because I happened to have a few skeins hanging around and it went well with the bike chain theme.  In addition, this is a very easy pattern to do.  It only took me four evenings to make both the hat and the scarf.  Alternately, this set would work well for the ladies too.  A bright color yarn will really make those textured stitches stand out!

 

Bike Chain Hat

This hat looks flat in the photo but it actually comes down to cover the ears.

Measurements: Will fit head circimference 22″ to 26″  Materials: About 223 yards of worsted weight yarn.  I used  one skein of Paton’s Classic Wool in dark grey, Crochet hook size I, yarn needle.  Gauge: In pattern, 14 sts and 15 rows equal 4″.

Crown

Chain 5.  Join into a ring with a sl st in first ch.  Ch 2, ch2 counts as a st throughout pattern.work 15 dc into ring.  Join with a sl st into 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Ch1, turn.

Round 2:     Sc into same st as joining. *Front post single crochet ( fpsc) around post of next dc, sc into top of next dc* and work from * to * around until 16 sts have been worked. Join with a sl st to first sc. Ch 2, turn. Mark this side as the right side.

Round 3:     2 dc  in 1st sc and into ea sc around. Join with a sl st to 1st dc. Ch 1, turn. (32 dc)

Round 4:     Sc into first dc, *fpsc into next dc, sc into top of next dc* and work from * to * around until 32 sc have been worked , join with a sl st, ch2, turn.

Round 5:      Dc in 1st sc, * 2 dc into next sc, dc into next sc*, around until 48 dc have been worked.  Join, ch 1, turn.

Round 6:     Sc into 1st dc, *fpsc into next dc, sc into next dc*, work from * to * around. Join, ch 2, turn.

Round 7:     Dc in first 2 sc, *2 dc in next sc,  dc in next 2 sc* around until you have worked 64 dc. Join, ch 1, turn.

Round 8:     Work round 6.

Round 9:     Work a double crochet round by placing 2 dc into each 4th st. Join, ch 1, turn. (80 dc)

Round 10 through round 25: Work even on 80 stitches by alternating the (sc, fpsc,sc, etc) round and the dc round,  End with the dc row.

Hat Band

Round 1:     Sc into back loops only of ea dc around. Join, ch 2, turn.

Round 2:     Dc into both loops of ea st around, join, ch 1. Do not turn.

Round 3:     Work  round 6 from crown.

Work 5 more rounds, alternating dc and sc rounds. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

 

Bike Chain Scarf

Measurements: 54″ x 7″

Materials:  About 340 yards of worsted weight yarn.  I used 1.5 skeins of  Paton’s Classic Wool in dark grey. Crochet hook size I, yarn needle. Gauge: In pattern, 14 sts and 15 rows equal 4″

The ch 2 at the beginning of ea row counts as a stitch throughout pattern.

Ch 193. Dc into 2nd ch from hook and into ea ch across.  Ch 1, turn. (191 dc)

Row 2:     Sc into1st dc, *front post sc ( fpsc) around post of next dc, sc into top of next dc* across row to last 2 dc. Fpsc around next dc, sc into top of tc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3:     Dc into ea st across.  Ch 1, turn.

Rows 4- 21 ( or until scarf measures about 7″) repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2. Fasten off.

Attach yarn on wrong side of first dc row of scarf. Work row 2 across. Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Because the nature of this pattern causes the fabric to slant slightly, I blocked it by pinning it to shape and misting it lightly with water.  Dry overnight.

Copyright Carol Wolf, September 2010

 
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Posted by on September 17, 2010 in crochet, Projects

 

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