Because I am using variegated yarn for this jacket, I decided that the best way to avoid the ugly splotches that sometimes result when using this yarn was to crochet the jacket body in one continuous piece, making slits for the deep armholes and a small cut-out for the front neck. This method has the effect of spreading the bands of color out over a larger area creating thin stripes.
Once you have reached the level of the armhole slits, the bands of color will become wider as you work the individual fronts and the back. This still makes a pleasing design as the color bands seem to gradually narrow as your eye moves from the bodice of the jacket to the hem.
The buttonholes are worked as you work the body, eliminating the need for front bands which again would pose a problem with the variegated yarn.. Once the body and sleeves are complete, the shoulder seams must be sewn before the sleeves are inserted. Still, by dong away with the side seams, a lot of sewing has been avoided.
I’m still working on this project but I can give you some basic schematics and measurements to show you how the jacket will look. I’m using a K hook. The surprising part of this stitch is that you must work your chain with a smaller hook. The stitch is *sc, ch1.* On the second row you still work sc, ch1 but place your sc into the ch 1 sp from the previous row. Your first row causes your starting chain to be very loose and tends to make the hem wider than the rest of the jacket. Using a smaller hook for your chain will help. Also, once you are done with the body of the jacket, you can work a row of sc, ch1 into the starting chain, thus pulling the loose stitches together. Your call.
Don’t be afraid of the increases for the sleeves. They are very easy to do because you will simply work two stitches into one. No problem! Have a look at the schematic and decide if you would like to change any of the measurements. My gauge with the yarn( Filatura Lanarota acrylic/wool blend yarn) I am using is:
8 stitches = 4 inches ( where *sc, ch1 * counts as one stitch)
17 rows = 4 inches
The body will measure 103 1/2 stitches across the hem and 102 rows from hem to shoulder. I hope that my 18 skeins of yarn will be enough to still add a collar when I am finished. The pattern will be available when I have finished this project.