Erika Neck Cozy

Redux

The pattern for the original Alder Neck Cozy was inadvertently thrown out with some of my old pattern notes.  At first I thought I would be able to reproduce the pattern from simply looking at the project but I was afraid that I would have too many errors that way.  I no longer had enough of the Alder yarn which is DK weight.  But I did have 2 skeins of Red Heart Eco Ways in Misty Violet which is worsted weight.

I quickly sat down to redo this project.  The Erika version uses fewer stitches but is made exactly the same way. I made it in two evenings.   If you want to make the Alder version with DK, just chain 63 instead of 51.  Then simply follow the instructions for Erika.  Your stitch count will be different but everything else will remain the same ( I think).

Erika Neck Cozy

Materials:  2 skeins of Red Heart Eco Ways, Misty Violet 186 yds, 170 m ( I only used a small portion of the 2nd skein so you might actually need about 275 to 300 yds.  Crochet hooks sizes H and J, 2 small buttons, yarn needle.

Size:  One size fits most

Gauge: 5  “petals” = 4″   and 8 pattern rows = 4″ using larger hook

Lower peplum

Row 1:  With J, ch 51. Sc into 2nd ch from hook and into ea ch to end.  (50 sc) Turn. This is the right side (RS) of your work.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sk 1 sc,( ch 1 sp made), [sc, ch 3, dc]  into next sc, * sk 2 sc, [sc, ch 3, dc] into next sc**, repeat from * to ** to last 3 sts. Sk 2 sc, sc in last sc. Turn. ( 16 “petals” made)

Row 3:  Ch 3, 2 dc  into 1st  sc, 3 dc into ea sc across ( you will be skipping all the “dc,  ch 3″ stitches) to las t ch 1 sp, 3 dc into ch 1 sp. Turn.

Row 4:  Ch 1, *sk 1 dc, [sc, ch 3, dc]** repeat from * to ** to last dc. Sc in last dc. Turn ( 25 “petals”)

Row 5:  (inc row)  Ch 3, 1 dc in 1st sc. * 3 dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc** Repeat from * to ** to last ch 1 sp. 3 dc into last ch 1 sp. Turn.

Row 6:  Repeat row 4 ( 32 “petals”)

Row 7: Ch 3, dc into 1st sc, 2 dc into ea sc to end, 2 dc into ch 1 sp. Turn.

Row 8:  Repeat Row 4

Row 9:  ( inc row)  Ch 3, dc into 1st sc, * 2 dc into next sc, 3 dc into next sc,  2 dc into next sc** Repeat from * to ** to last ch 1 sp, 2 dc into last ch 1 sp. Turn

Row 10:  Repeat row 4 ( 38 “petals”)

Row 11:  Repeat row 7.

Row 12: Repeat row 4

Row 13:  Ch 3, dc into 1st sc, *[2 dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, 3 dc in next sc}**  repeat from * to ** to last 2 sc. 2dc into ea of last 2 sc, 2 dc into ch 1 sp. Turn.

Row 14:  Repeat row 4. Fasten off.

Neck Band

Row 1 :  With H, on wrong side (WS) attach yarn with a sl st at neck edge corner into starting ch. Ch 1, working into opposite side of your beginning ch, sc 50 around neck edge to end. Turn.

Rows 2-7: Ch 1, sc into ea st around. Turn

Neck Ruffle

Row 8:  Working in front loops only (FLO) ch 1, sk 1st sc, [sc, ch 3, dc] into next sc, * sk 2 sc, {sc,ch 3, dc} into next sc**  Repeat  from * to ** to last sc. Sc into last sc. Turn. ( 17 “petals”)

Row 9:  ( inc row) Ch 3, dc in 1st sc, 3 dc into ea sc around to last ch 1 sp, 2 dc into ch 1 sp. Turn.

Row 10:  Ch 1, *sk 1 dc, {sc, ch 3, dc} into next dc** Repeat from * to ** around to last 2 dc. Sk next dc, sc in last dc. Turn.

Row 11:  Ch 3, dc into 1st sc, 2 dc into ea sc around. Turn,

Row 12:  Repeat row 10.

Row 13:  Ch 3, 1 dc into 1st sc. *2 dc into next sc, 3 dc into next sc, 2 dc into next sc** Repeat from * to ** around to last ch 1 sp. 2dc into ch 1 sp. Turn.

Row 14:  Repeat row 10.

Row 15: Repeat row 11.

Row 16:  Repeat row 10.  Fasten off.

Front Trim

Attach yarn with a sl st on WS of left front at corner of neck ruffle. Ch 1, sc in same st, working in sides of rows, place 13 sc down edge of ruffle, 5 sc along edge of neck band, and 20 sc along edge of peplum. Ch 1, turn.  Work 2 more rows.  Fasten off.

Attach yarn with a sl st on RS of bottom corner of peplum. Ch 1, sc in same st, work a row of sc along edge as for left front, placing 20 sc into edge of peplum, 5 sc into edge of neck band, and 14 sc into edge of ruffle. Turn.

Ch 1, work 14 sc to neck band, Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc into next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc into ea sc to end, turn. Ch 1, sc into ea sc to ch 2 sp, 3 sc into ch 2 sp, sc into next sc, 3 sc into ch 2 sp, sc into ea sc to end. Fasten off.

Weave in ends with yarn needle.  Sew buttons on left side opposite buttonholes.  My neck cozy benefitted from a little light blocking along the front edges to keep the corners from curling and to straighten the front bands.

Copyright: Carol Wolf, January 2012

 

Apologies All Around

Alder Neck Cozy

I had promised to post the pattern for my Alder Neck Cozy.  Alas, the notebook that held my pattern notes has been accidentally discarded.  I was cleaning out my bookshelves and, noticing that several notebooks were full, I threw out the lot of them, not realizing that one of them still held my unwritten pattern!  The trash pickup came before I noticed my error. So it’s back to square one, trying to recreate what I did by just looking at my finished item and fiddling with my hook to try to remember the finer points.  I can’t promise that I will ever come up with the finished pattern but I will give it a try.  Now that I am learning how to knit, I’m finding all kinds of interesting knitting patterns I want to make! 

BTW The poncho shown here underneath the neckwarmer is Josi’s Poncho  by Josi Hannon Madera.

 

Is Knitting in my Future?

My First Attempt

When I saw that Kim Kuzman  was giving on-line knitting classes over at Crochetville, I decided to sign up. I had tried my hand at knitting many times previously and always gave up.  Somehow it seemed that I had a mental block against this craft.  I bought books, watched videos, and even took lessons from Lisa Gentry at one of the CGOA Chain Link Conferences, all to no avail

When I sat down at my computer yesterday and tried my first row, I was all thumbs. Casting my work aside, I immediately gave up and complained to my husband about how inept I was.  He agreed that I seemed to have a strong resistance to learning how to knit.  Later on that evening I steeled myself and tried again.  Eurika! I managed to make the small swatch pictured above.  I know, I know, it’s really awful.  I’m having a big problem with yarn splitting, tension, and dropped stitches, but I think I’ve finally overcome my aversion to knitting!

We’ll see what the next week brings. My goal is to learn how to make ribbed knit cuffs for my crochet sweaters. Who knows, maybe from there I can actually learn how to knit the whole sweater!  I’m not striking this off my bucket list yet–it’s too soon to see if I will actually stick with it.  But at least I’m on my way!

Neck Cozy Project

Having just completed the No Bobble “Bobble” Scarf, I became curious about how that “faux bobble” stitch would translate into a solid color yarn.  I still had several skeins of the Purelife DK yarn left over that I had used to make the Alder Buckthorn Fitted Jacket.  An hour with my crochet hooks convinced me that size K was the right hook to use for my new project.  The resulting fabric was lightweight and airy.  The “bobble” texture from the scarf I had made previously was not really in evidence here.  This time, the stitch looked more like layer upon layer of petals.  Cascading petals seemed perfect for a little round neck cozy with overlapping collar.  I’ve never been a person who enjoys keeping yarn stash ( I get tired of looking at it by the time I figure out a project!) so I grabbed those remaining Purelife skeins and got to work.  The end result is as pictured below.  Now I just need some time to write up the pattern.  Stay tuned!

 

“Kiss Me” Neck Cozy

“Kiss Me” refers to the X’s that the crossed double crochet stitches produce in this pattern.

Materials: About 150 yards of Knit Picks Bare, Merino Laceweight Wool and Silk, yarn needle, two 1/2″ buttons

Crochet Hook: Size F

Gauge: 22 sts in crossed double crochet = 4″

               8 row “pairs” = 4″

Collar Section:

Chain 2 at the end of the row is the 1st stitch of  the next row.

Ch 31, sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch to end.  Mark this side as right side.  Ch2, turn.

Row 1:  Sk first sc, dc in next sc, dc in skipped sc. *Sk next sc, dc in next sc, dc in skipped sc* Repeat from * to * to last sc. Dc in last sc.  ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc into top of ea dc to end. Ch 2, turn.

These two rows are called a “pair”.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 35 pairs.  Repeat row 1. Ch 1, turn corner to begin working along long bottom edge.

Bottom Edge: 

Sc into end of row just finished. Continue along bottom edge, placing 1 sc into the end of ea sc row and 2 sc into the end of ea dc row. (108 sc) Ch 2, turn.

Row 1:  Dc into ea of 1st 2 sts, 2 dc into next st. *Dc into ea of next 3 sts. 2 dc into next st*.  Work from * to * to last 4 sts. Dc into ea of last 4 sts.  Ch 2, turn. (134 dc)

Row 2: Dc into ea of 1st 3 sts. 2 dc into next st. *Dc into ea of next 4 sts,  2 dc into next  st*.  Repeat from * to * to last 5 sts. Work 1 dc into ea of the last 5 sts.  Ch 2, turn. (160 dc)

Row 3: Dc into ea of 1st  4 sts. 2 dc into next st. * Dc into ea of next 5 sts, 2 dc into next st*. Repeat from * to * to last 6 sts. Dc into ea of last 6 sts. Ch 1 turn. (186 dc) 

Row 4: Sc into ea st to end of row. Turn the work sideways.

Front and top edging: 

Working across ends of rows  just finished, work 6 sc.  Continue to work in sc to corner, placing 3 sc into corner. Work 1 sc into end of ea sc row  and 1 sc into end of ea dc row across top of collar.  At corner, work 3 sc into corner.  Continue to work in sc along the left front to the ends of the dc rows of the bottom edging.  Work 6 sc across the ends of these rows to corner. Ch 1, turn. Work one more row of sc along left front edge. Fasten off. Weave in ends. You may like to do some very light blocking.  Sew buttons into place and use spaces in fabric as buttonholes.

You can also add additional buttons to have the neck button all the way to the top.  This will give you more of a turtleneck effect and then you can leave some buttons undone as an alternative look.

Copyright Carol Wolf, December 2010