Summertime Tunic
Tag Archives: Free Pattern
Caramel Bog Jacket Revisited
The Caramel Bog Jacket has been one of my more intriguing designs. It was inspired by a class I had taken in 2006 at the CGOA Conference. Nancy Nehring had taught a design class called Just Rectangles that featured modular designs and how to combine squares and rectangles to make clothing. This was right up my alley! I love modular designs and decided to try my hand at the bog jacket. If you look up bog jacket on the web, you’ll find many historical references to this garment.
In years past, fabric was dear and hard-won. Each piece of cloth had to be woven or knitted by hand. The cheapest and easiest way to make a coat was to make a square piece of fabric and simply fold it and sew it in strategic places. There was no extra time or money to make fitted sleeves or to do fancy shaping. In the photo below you will see a paper example of how the bog jacket is folded. This will help you when you assemble your completed project.
The bog jacket pattern I made in 2007 is on Scribd. At the time, I was having a problem converting all my patterns from my old website to my blog. The bog jacket pattern would not format properly to be included on WordPress so I placed it on Scribd. Unfortunately, over the years Scribd has changed their policy and no longer allows downloads unless you contribute something yourself. So this week I got busy and re-wrote the pattern for pdf. The new link for the Caramel Bog Jacket is below.
Caramel Bog Jacket
Enchanted Evening Cardigan
This pattern uses two strands of size 10 thread held together throughout. The openwork pattern of the body of the sweater changes to straight triple crochet on the sleeves to make increases easier. Pattern pieces are all rectangular except for the sleeves which taper to the wrist.
I like to chain 2 instead of chain 3 at the beginning of a row when making double crochet stitches. If you prefer to chain 3, be aware that your edge will be a bit wavy and not straight. The chain 2 counts as a stitch throughout this pattern. When you reach the end of a row and must place your last single crochet into the 2nd chain of the turning chain from the previous row. When working the sleeves, the ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as a triple crochet stitch.
Size: 44″ Bust and Hips
Materials: Department 71 Size 8 Perle Cotton, 50 grams, 440 yds. 8 balls, Black. Size E (3.50mm) crochet hook, 3/8″ black button
Gauge: Body Pattern: 3 shells and 2 ch 3 sps ( shell, ch 3, shell, ch 3, shell ) = 4″
12 row = 4″
Sleeve Pattern: 16 sts and 7 rows = 4″
Stitches Used: ch, sc, sc 2tog, dc, tr, shell (5 dc into same ch 3 sp)
Lower back
Holding 2 strands of thread together, ch 114. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch1, sk 1 ch, *sc into next ch, ch3, sk 3 chs**. Repeat from * to ** to last 3 chs. Sc into next ch, ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc into last ch. This is the right side of your work. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, dc into 1st sc, 2 dc into 1st ch 1 sp. * sk next sc, 5 dc ( shell) into next ch 3 sp**. Repeat from * to ** to last 3 sts. Sk next sc, 2 dc into next ch 1 sp, dc in next sc. Turn
Row 3: Sc into 1st dc, ch 1, sk 2 dc, *sc into next dc, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc into next dc**. Repeat from * to ** to the last 3 sts. Sc into next dc, ch1, sk next dc, sc into top of tc from prev. row. Turn.
Rows 4- 22: Repeat rows 2 and 3 nineteen(19) times more. Make sure you end on the wrong side of the piece. Turn.
Shape armhole: Right side-sl st into the next 11 sts and chs. You will place your last stitch into the 5th dc of the 1st complete shell. Ch 1, sc into same st, ch 3, continue to work pattern to last complete shell. Sc in 1st dc of shell. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 5 ( counts as dc, ch3) *sk next 3 chs, 5dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3** Repeat pattern to last sc. Dc in last sc. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in 1st dc, *ch 3, sk 3 chs, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next dc** Repeat pattern to Ch 5 from prev row. Ch 3, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch. Turn.
Rows 4-20: Repeat rows 1 and 2 or until piece measures 8 1/2″ from beginning of armhole shaping. Fasten off.
Right Front
Ch 58. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, *sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 chs** Repeat from * to ** to last 2 chs. Ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc in last ch. Turn.
Rows 2-22: Work as for lower back until piece measures the same as lower back before armhold shaping.
Shape Armhole: Work right armhole shaping the same as for back. Continue working in pattern to front edge of right front piece. Work until armhole measures 4″, ending at armhole edge.
Shape Neck: Work pattern across 4 shells ending with a sc in last dc of last shell. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2. Four dc in 1st ch 3 sp, 5 dc in next ch 3 sp…work in pattern to end of row. Turn
Row 3: Work in pattern to last shell. Ch 3, sc in top of tc from prev. row. Turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until armhole measures same as for back. End on a WS row. Fasten off
Left Front
Work same as for right front but reverse armhole and neck shaping.
Sleeves:
Ch 41. Sc into 2nd ch from hook and into ea ch across. Turn
Row 1: Ch 3. tr into ea st across. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 3. Tr into base of tc just made. Tr into ea st across to last st (tc from prev row) 2 tr into top of tc. Turn. (2 increases made).
Rows 3-33: Repeat rows 1 and 2. Fasten off (68 sts)
Joining: With right sides facing each other, stitch shoulder seams of back and both fronts. With right sides together, center top of sleeves over shoulder seams and stitch to armhole corner. Pivot sleeve and sew 2″ of long side of sleeve to armhole extensions on back and fronts. With right sides together, stitch underarm seams and side seams of fronts.
Bottom Edging
Round 1: Attach yarn on RS at bottom left front corner. Ch 1, sc into 1st sc, sc into ch 1 sp, sc into next sc. *3 sc into next ch 3 sp ( you will be working around the ch 3 from the starting ch and from the row below the starting ch, having 2 ch 3′s enclosed in your 3 sc’s ), sc in next sc** Repeat from * to ** side seam. [Sc in next sc, sc into ch 1 sp] twice. Sc into next sc. Repeat from * to ** around bottom in this manner, working side seam as stated above. until you come to the right front edge. 3 sc into corner sc. Work 79 sc along front edge ( place 1 sc into ea sc and ea dc at end of ea row). 2 sc into corner st at neck edge, sc into ea of next 2 dc, [3 sc into ch 3 sp, sc into ea of next 5 dc] twice. sc into next ch 3 sp, Work into ends of rows as for front to ch 3 sp in corner. sc into ch 3 sp, *sc into ea dc, 3 sc into ea ch 3 sp** to front corner st, 3 sc into corner st, work sc along front edge as for opposite front ( 79 sts). Turn.
Round 2: Sc along front edge, place 3 sc into top corner st at neck, sc around neck placing 1 sc into ea st but skipping the center sc over ea ch 3 sp. Sc 2 tog at inside corners. 3 sc into opposite neck corner st, sc into ea sc down center front, 3 sc into bottom corner st, Sc along bottom edge, skipping middle sc over ch 3 sp to corner. Turn
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into ea st along bottom edge to corner. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, tr into 1st 2 sc. 4 tr into ea sc around bottom edge to last 3 sts. Tr into ea of last 3 sts. Fasten off
Neck Edge:
Round 1: Attach yarn on rs neck corner st of right front. Ch 1, sc in same place. Sc around neck, skipping middle sc over ch 3 sp to corner and working a sc2tog in ea inside corner. Turn
Round 2: Ch 3, tr into ea of next 2 sc, 4 tr into ea sc around neck to last 3 sc. Tr into ea of last 3 sc. Fasten off.
Front Edges
Right Front Edge:
Attach yarn on RS in corner st near hem. Ch 1. sc in same place, 5 dc into end of ruffle row, sk 1 row, sc into end of next row, *sk 1 sc, dc into next sc, sk 1 sc, sc into next sc**. Repeat from * to ** End with 5 dc into end of ruffle row at neck. Sc into top of tr of ruffle row. Fasten off
Left Front Edge:
On RS attach yarn at neck edge. Sk 1 row, 5 dc into end of next row, *sk 1 sc, sc into next sc, sk 1 sc, 5 dc into next sc** Repeat from * to ** along front edge to bottom, ending with 5 dc into end of ruffle row, sc into top of tr from ruffle row. Fasten off.
Lightly block edges of cardigan Weave in ends. Sew small button at right front neck edge. Use space between Tr stitches as buttonhole.
Copyright Carol Wolf, March 2011
Bike Chain Car Coat Pattern
This coat is worked from side-to-side beginning with the left center front. The shoulder seams are crocheted together, the collar and bottom bands are worked and then the sleeves are seamed and set in last. Although the stitch pattern and basic construction for this coat is easy, the blocking and addition of a zipper makes it more difficult so I am assigning it an “intermediate” level of difficulty.
Size: 50″ at Bust and Hips
Materials: 17 sk Naturally Caron Country 185 yds, color 0017 Claret, Crochet hooks sizes B and G, 25″ zipper (or length of your choice to conform to length of center front ), (2) 17/16″ buttons, stitch markers, yarn needle, sewing needle, matching thread, stainless steel straight pins.
Gauge: 18 sts equal 4″ in bike chain pattern, 16 rows = 4″ in bike chain pattern
Stitches used: chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), single crochet 2 tog (sc2tog), front post single crochet (fpsc), double crochet (dc)
Bike Chain Pattern:
Row 1: Dc into ea st across, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc into top of 1st dc. *Sc around post of next dc (fpsc), sc into top of next dc*. Repeat from * to * to end, placing last sc into top of tc from previous row. Ch2, turn. Ch2 counts as a dc here and throughout the pattern.
These 2 rows make up the bike chain pattern henceforth called a “pair”.
Difficulty: Intermediate
Left front
With G hook, ch 94 ( not loosely).
Sc into the top 2 loops of 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. (93 sc) Ch 2, turn.
Work bike chain pattern. Mark 1st dc row as right side of fabric. Work a total of 5 pairs. You will have a sc row as your last row. Fasten stitch with a stitch marker.
Increase for Shoulder
With another ball of yarn, attach yarn with a sl st at 1st sc of last row ( opposite end from your stitch marker). Ch 15. Fasten off.
Next row: Go back to the stitch marker and insert your hook into the last stitch you worked and continue in the bike chain pattern by working your next dc row. Dc into ea sc and into the top 2 loops of ea ch to end of row (increase made–107 sts total)
Continue to work the bike chain pattern until the front piece measures about 11″ wide or 21 pairs total rows. Make sure you end with a sc row. Fasten off.
Decrease for Armhole
Turn. Sk 44 sts. Join yarn with a sl st at 45th st. Dc into same place as joining. Work a dc row. (63 sts) Continue in bike chain pattern until piece measure 2″ from beginning of armhole ( your 1st dec. row). End with a sc row. Do not fasten off, secure your last st with a st marker.
Increase for Back
With another ball of yarn, attach yarn with a sl st in first st of row just worked (opposite end from your st marker). Ch 45. Fasten off. You will have 44 chs.
Go back to your secured st and work a dc row across all sts and all chs (107 sts). Continue to work in bike chain pattern until the back measures 22″ between the back edges of the armholes or you have completed 42 pairs. Work one more dc row.
Decrease for Armhole
Continue to work in bike chain pattern, working the next sc row over 63 sts. Ch 2, turn. When armhole is the same width as left front, end with a sc row and secure your last stitch.
Increase for Shoulder
Attach another ball of yarn at the 1st st of the sc row just finished (opposite end from your secured st). Ch 45. Fasten off. You should have 44 chs. Go back to your secured st and work a dc row across all sts and all chs. (107 sts). Work in bike ch pattern until you have a total of 16 pairs. Work one more row of dc. Fasten off.
Shape Neck
Turn. Sk 14 sts. Attach yarn at 15th st. Work bike chain pattern until center front section measures the same as for left front. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Sleeves (make 2)
With hook G, ch 54 ( not loosely) Sc top 2 loops of ea ch across. Ch 2, turn. (53 sts)
Work a sc row in bike chain pattern.
Work a dc row in bike chain pattern.
Work a sc row in bike chain pattern.
Inc. Row: 2 sc into top if 1st dc. Fpsc around post of next dc. Work in pattern to last 2 dc. Fpsc around post of next dc. 2 sc into top of last dc. ch2, turn.
Continue to work in bike chain pattern working an inc. row ever 4th row ( every other sc row). I like to mark my inc. rows with a st marker so that I can see where my last increase was made. Work 33 pairs or until sleeve is the length you desire. End with a sc row. Note: If you like your sleeves longer and want to work more rows, do not work any more increases. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
It is now time to block your work. The blocking process is necessary because this pattern causes the fabric to skew to one side. Please refer to this post for more detail about how to block your coat. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
Once your coat has been blocked you can join the shoulders. Place the body of your coat on a table, right sides together. I like to take some scrap yarn and separate it into 2-ply strands. I knot the ends together and wind it into a ball. Now I will use this thread to crochet the shoulder seams together. You will note from the photo that I have used little girls’ hair clips to keep the pattern pieces from shifting. Attach your yarn at the end of one shoulder and with hook B, sc across shoulders making sure that you catch both pieces with your hook, that your rows match and that your work lies flat. Do the same with the other shoulder. Weave in all ends. You can also sew your shoulder seams together if you wish.
Bottom Band
1) Attach yarn with a sl st on wrong side at bottom right front corner. With hook G, Sc in same place as joining. Sc across bottom of coat placing 1 sc into the end of ea sc row and 1 sc into the end of ea dc row. Work about 186 sts making sure that you end up with an even number. Do not fasten off. Ch 8, turn.
2) Dc in 3rd ch from hook and into top 2 loops of ea ch and into ea st across (193 sts). Make sure you have an odd number of stitches. Ch 1, turn.
3) Work a sc row of the bike chain pattern to last dc. 2 sc into last dc. Ch 2, turn.
4) 2 Dc in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, dc to end of row.
5) Work a sc row to ch 3 sp, 3 sc into ch 3 sp, to last 2 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 dc.
6) Work 2 more rows of the bike chain pattern ending with a sc row. Do not fasten off. Sc 10 sts around end of tab. Join with a sl st in corner where tab meets body of coat. Fasten off.
Collar
1) With G, ch 7. Join chain with a sl st to corner st on wrong side of left front neck edge. Sc in same st as joining. Sc around neckline placing 1 st in the end of ea sc row and 1 st in the end of ea dc row. Sc 2tog at corners. Ch2, turn. (7 chs plus 68 sc)
2) Work dc row of bike chain pattern across 68 sts and 7 chs. (75 dc) Ch 1, turn.
3) 2 sc in 1st dc, fpsc around post of next dc, sc in next dc. Continue in pattern to end of row. Ch2, turn.
4) Dc across row to last 6 sc. Ch 3, sk 3 sc, dc in ea of next 2 sc, 2 dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn.
5) Sc 2 tog over 1st two dc. Fpsc over next dc. Continue in pattern to finish the row.
6) Work a dc row. Fasten off.
7) Turn. Attach yarn with a sl st on wrong side at bottom corner of buttonhole tab where the tab meets the body of the coat. Sc in same place as joining. Work 11 sc around tab to last row worked. Sc in top of 1st dc, fpsc around next dc, continue in bike chain pattern to end of row. Fasten off.
With zipper closed, place bottom plastic end of zipper under center front edges having front edges meeting in center of zipper. Make sure that plastic selvage at bottom is not visible from the right side. Pin in place. Open zipper and hand-sew to coat with matching thread. Turn upper edge of zipper under and stitch in place.
With right sides together, center underarm sleeve seam in bottom of armhole. Clip or pin in place. Continue around sleeve, clipping it to the armhole and making sure that it is lying flat. Crochet through both thicknesses using the size B hook or sew sleeve seam being careful not to make seam too tight. Repeat with the other sleeve.
Finishing
Sew buttons in place on front band and collar under buttonholes.
Note: I promised to include a diagram but am having trouble with my drawing program. Below is a small graphic of the body of the coat. If you click on the drawing, you will be able to see the dimensions.
Copyright: Carol Wolf November 2010
A New Crochet Project In The Works
Okay, this is the yarn. I was going to make the Copenhagen Jacket but after making a 6″ piece, I decided that the cables made the fabric too thick. Now I have 18 skeins of Naturally Caron and it seems to be plenty for a car coat. This will be a free pattern but I am still working on it and the going is slow. I’ve injured my wrist again and the cortisone shots are no longer working so the next option will be surgery. Just bear with me while I do a few inches of this every day. Eventually I’ll end up with a finished product and a pattern!
I snagged a couple of great finds at a yard sale last week. One was a book that I have been meaning to read but somehow forgot to buy. It was quite a bargain at 50 cents. The other was a small metal magazine holder that is just the right size for my bathroom. I paid $3 for that one. It needs a coat of green paint to add that unexpected splash of color in an otherwise neutral enviornment.
Summer is almost over! We had the opportunity to take a little camping trip one weekend but we are saving our big vacation for the last week of October. For two years we’ve been planning a Disney World getaway with the kids and grandkids. Paul and I will be taking our RV and the rest of the family will be staying in a friend’s timeshare. Can’t wait!
