Tag Archives: free crochet scarf pattern
In my last post, I mentioned that I had begun the Tracing Shadows scarf using the shadow tracery stitch pattern and Patons Kroy Sock Yarn in taupe and dark grey. After working on this project for a couple of evenings, I had the same ambivalence about this color yarn that I had when I tried to use it for my crop circles project. I laid it down and never picked it up again!
Instead, I decided to gather all the tiny leftover balls of yarn that I had used for the 20 pair of mitts I had made over the holidays. Using a slightly different order of colors, I finished this new scarf project in two evenings! Of course, you can use any color order that you prefer and make it as long and as wide as you want it. Just remember that your puff stitch row must always be worked on the wrong side of your fabric.
When we moved into our house 3 1/2 years ago, we had just given up traveling in our RV for 7 years. Aside from what we had in the RV, we had no other furniture or possessions. It was a real challenge to purchase everything that we needed for home living in the first few months!
Our house had been built in 1987 and still had the original beigy-pinky formica counter. It was chipped in places and had a build-up of grease in other places that was so thick I needed a paint scraper to remove it! A thorough cleaning didn’t make it look much better. My husband promised me a new counter but as each year went by, somehow one project after another took priority. We managed to make the kitchen look much better by painting, replacing the floor and appliances, and adding a cute window treatment. I purchased a stainless steel cart at Ikea and used it as an island. Each time I wanted to use an item from the cart, I had to wash it since it had collected dust and dog hair.
Well, finally my day has come! Last Saturday we visited Advanced Granite Solutions and picked out a granite called Uba Tuba. You can see this color in the demonstration kitchen below.
Then I went to Kountry Klassic Woodshop and gave them the specs for my new island. This island will be very narrow and have glass doors on both sides to solve the dust problem. The granite engineer is coming tomorrow to measure and work up a template for my new counter. If all goes as planned, I should have a new granite counter, a stainless steel double sink, a new garbage disposal and a new island by the end of next week! I’m doing the happy dance here!
So now that I’m going to have this beautiful counter, I definitely wanted to replace my canisters. I had purchased my old canisters at Ikea and they were so small that I couldn’t get a measuring cup inside! Each time I tried to scoop out some flour, it ended up on the counter and the floor. Being the computer addict that I am, I Googled “ kitchen canisters” and discovered that a lot of folks loved the big Anchor Hocking glass canisters. I found them at Wal-Mart for $9.95 each and immediately purchased them and had them hold the items for in-store pick-up. As so often happens with my on-line purchases, I did not look carefully at the product specifications. Imagine my surprise when I picked them up and found that they were HUGE! Each canister holds 2 gallons! It was all we could do to fit the three of them into the shopping cart!
In the photo above, you see my old canister in front of the new ones. It looks like I will be buying in bulk from now on! But all kidding aside, these big hefty jars are gorgeous and I think that they will look great on the new counter. I never used that corner of the counter anyway!
3 skeins Lion Brand Tweed Stripes, Woodland; Bulky (5) 144 yds/132 m, Crochet Hooks size K (6.00 mm) and L (8.00 mm), Yarn needle
Without Fringe: 60″ X 10″
In pattern, 10 dc = 4″, 6 rows = 4″
Slip Stitch ( sl st) Single Crochet ( sc) Half-Double Crochet (hdc) Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet 2 Together (dc2tog)
Note: The beginning ch 3 counts as a dc throughout this pattern.
Row 1: With L, Ch 26. Switch to K. Dc in 4th ch from hook and into ea ch across. Turn (24 dc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sk 1st dc, (sc, ch 3, hdc) into next dc, *sk next dc, (sc, ch 3, hdc) into next dc**. Repeat from * to ** to last dc. Sc in last dc (tc). Turn. NOTE: If you are finding it a problem to make a hdc after making a ch 3, you can make a dc instead. This uses a bit more yarn but does not change the look of the project.
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in 1st sc, *sk next (hdc,ch3), 2 dc in next sc**. Repeat from * to ** to last (hdc,ch3). Sk (hdc, ch3), 2 dc in ch 1 sp from prev row (tc). Turn. (You will be placing 2 dc into ea sc in the row. 11 “bobbles” made)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern until scarf measures 60″ without fringe. End with row 3 as the last row worked. Do not fasten off.
Fringe: ( Optional) *Ch 12, dc2tog in 3rd ch from hook, sl st in same ch, sl st in ea of remaining 9 chs, sl st into next st on scarf.** Repeat from * to ** until you have worked 23 fringes. Fasten off. On other end of scarf, attach yarn with a sl st on RS in first st. ( You will be working on the opposite side of your starting chain) Repeat from * to ** until you have worked 23 fringes. Fasten off Weave in ends with yarn needle.Copyright: Carol Wolf, January 2012
Many of you will agree that bobbles look fantastic on all manner of crocheted items. Not only do they offer great nubby texture, but they also work as an insulating mechanism to make scarves, hats, and blankets that much warmer. But I have to tell you that I find bobbles very tedious to make. All that business of removing and re-inserting the hook really slows down the progress of whatever you are working on. In addition, I dislike the fact that bobble-making takes quite a lot more yarn. If I am planning a design with bobbles, I always have to allow an extra skein so that I am sure I will not run out.
Well, do I have a great pattern for you bobble-haters! As I was browsing my craftroom bookshelves for a new and interesting pattern, I noticed a little pamphlet stuck behind a larger book. This little pamphlet, a booklet with two baby blankets on the cover, was something I had inherited from my mother-in-law. At first I was struck by the pretty shell design of the Boys’ Afghan. But upon closer inspection, I noticed that the Girls’ Afghan had a very interesting texture. It was difficult to see in the photo but I quickly got out my worsted weight yarn to work up a swatch. I was delighted to find that the stitch pattern approximates the bobble pattern but that the “bobbles” are actually three chains squeezed between the neighboring stitches. Wow! I really loved that pattern!
Now before we all get too excited, I should say that you will be making a half-double crochet stitch after your three chains. As we all know, working a half-double after a long chain can be a pain because the chain has a tendency to twist around the hook. On the other hand, by now all of us “intermediate and above” crocheters have come up with a method to solve this problem. I simply work my HDC in 2 stages, holding my chain out of the way with my right hand. I still feel that this is much easier and goes much faster than making bobbles! Lickity split I decided to work up a scarf in this new stitch. I call this the No Bobble “Bobble” Scarf. It is a nice comfy 10″ across and 60″ long without the fringe. If you like the chunky fringe, adding it also adds a lot of pizzazz. The pattern will be available tomorrow but here is a little preview to entice you!
The Kaleidoscope Scarf stitch pattern gives the illusion that the scarf is composed of braided strands of color. In reality, the self-striping sock yarn and the off-set shells contribute to this effect. When working the off-set shells, you will be required to work into individual chains instead of into a chain space. While this may seem a bit tricky at first, you will find that by working under the top 2 loops of the chain your stitches will be easy to make.
I’ve had many requests to provide my source for the yarn I used for this project. All I can remember is that it was hand-dyed sock yarn in fingering weight and is available from Lancaster Yarn Shop in Lancaster, PA. The link I have provided is a Ravelry link so you will have to join Ravelry as a free member to view it.
Materials: 1 ball of fingering-weight, self-striping sock yarn ( enough to make a pair of knitted socks) Size G Crochet hook, yarn needle
Size: My scarf is 56″ X 7 ” and long enough to wrap around the neck twice in cowl fashion.
Gauge: Not important for this project
Foundation Row: Ch 318. Dc into 4th ch from hook. Dc into next ch, sk 3 chs, sc into next ch, ch 3. *Dc into ea of next 3 chs, sk 3 chs, sc into next ch, ch 3**. Repeat from * to ** to last 4 chs. Sk 3 chs, Sc into last ch. Turn.
Row 2 : Ch 3, 2 dc into 1st sc. Sk 3 dc. * sc into next ch, ch 3, dc into ea of next 2 chs, dc into next sc, sk 3 dc**. Repeat from * to ** to last 4 sts. Sk 3 sts. Sc into top of tc from previous row. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until your scarf is as wide as you like. My yarn ran out when my scarf was 7″ wide. Weave in yarn ends with a yarn needle.
Copyright Carol Wolf, October 2011
Annette Petavy has come up with some beautiful published designs. I particularly admired the Leaves Sweater that features crocheted points all along the hem. One day as I was idly browsing through some scarf patterns at Ravelry, I came upon the Violet Points Scarf, a free pattern for Ravelry members. I was smitten. Rooting through my stash, I found some lace weight yarn, Knit Picks Merino Wool and Silk. I had exactly enough yarn for this scarf.
The pattern was surprisingly easy to work and quick to memorize. Because the instructions call for a fairly large hook, the project grew quickly. It only took me three evenings to complete. I had to go to an F hook instead of a G because the loops kept slipping off my hook but I think I still achieved the same airy, breezy look.
I developed a stitch recently that I have been using in designing a car coat. I am sure that this stitch is not original but I have decided to call it the “bike chain pattern”. My car coat is about half finished but it will take me some time yet to get it just right. In the meantime, I thought I’d make up a scarf and hat for Paul. This pattern is very rugged looking and is perfect for any male accessories. The texture traps air and makes for a particularly warm garment. I used Paton’s Classic Wool in dark grey because I happened to have a few skeins hanging around and it went well with the bike chain theme. In addition, this is a very easy pattern to do. It only took me four evenings to make both the hat and the scarf. Alternately, this set would work well for the ladies too. A bright color yarn will really make those textured stitches stand out!
Bike Chain Hat
This hat looks flat in the photo but it actually comes down to cover the ears.
Measurements: Will fit head circimference 22″ to 26″ Materials: About 223 yards of worsted weight yarn. I used one skein of Paton’s Classic Wool in dark grey, Crochet hook size I, yarn needle. Gauge: In pattern, 14 sts and 15 rows equal 4″.
Chain 5. Join into a ring with a sl st in first ch. Ch 2, ch2 counts as a st throughout pattern.work 15 dc into ring. Join with a sl st into 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Ch1, turn.
Round 2: Sc into same st as joining. *Front post single crochet ( fpsc) around post of next dc, sc into top of next dc* and work from * to * around until 16 sts have been worked. Join with a sl st to first sc. Ch 2, turn. Mark this side as the right side.
Round 3: 2 dc in 1st sc and into ea sc around. Join with a sl st to 1st dc. Ch 1, turn. (32 dc)
Round 4: Sc into first dc, *fpsc into next dc, sc into top of next dc* and work from * to * around until 32 sc have been worked , join with a sl st, ch2, turn.
Round 5: Dc in 1st sc, * 2 dc into next sc, dc into next sc*, around until 48 dc have been worked. Join, ch 1, turn.
Round 6: Sc into 1st dc, *fpsc into next dc, sc into next dc*, work from * to * around. Join, ch 2, turn.
Round 7: Dc in first 2 sc, *2 dc in next sc, dc in next 2 sc* around until you have worked 64 dc. Join, ch 1, turn.
Round 8: Work round 6.
Round 9: Work a double crochet round by placing 2 dc into each 4th st. Join, ch 1, turn. (80 dc)
Round 10 through round 25: Work even on 80 stitches by alternating the (sc, fpsc,sc, etc) round and the dc round, End with the dc row.
Round 1: Sc into back loops only of ea dc around. Join, ch 2, turn.
Round 2: Dc into both loops of ea st around, join, ch 1. Do not turn.
Round 3: Work round 6 from crown.
Work 5 more rounds, alternating dc and sc rounds. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Bike Chain Scarf
Measurements: 54″ x 7″
Materials: About 340 yards of worsted weight yarn. I used 1.5 skeins of Paton’s Classic Wool in dark grey. Crochet hook size I, yarn needle. Gauge: In pattern, 14 sts and 15 rows equal 4″
The ch 2 at the beginning of ea row counts as a stitch throughout pattern.
Ch 193. Dc into 2nd ch from hook and into ea ch across. Ch 1, turn. (191 dc)
Row 2: Sc into1st dc, *front post sc ( fpsc) around post of next dc, sc into top of next dc* across row to last 2 dc. Fpsc around next dc, sc into top of tc. Ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Dc into ea st across. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 4- 21 ( or until scarf measures about 7″) repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2. Fasten off.
Attach yarn on wrong side of first dc row of scarf. Work row 2 across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Because the nature of this pattern causes the fabric to slant slightly, I blocked it by pinning it to shape and misting it lightly with water. Dry overnight.
Copyright Carol Wolf, September 2010