Alder Buckthorn Fitted Jacket

Alder Buckthorn Fitted Jacket

The stitch pattern for this jacket is comprised of alternating single crochet and double crochet stitches. However, you will place a single crochet stitch at each edge.  This will give you a single crochet stitch at the beginning and end of each row. Your edge stitch is always independant of the pattern that you are working.  In other words, place your edge stitch and then work your pattern. Once you begin your pattern, you will always be making a single crochet stitch into a double crochet stitch from the row below and a double crochet stitch into a single crochet stitch from the row below. When you are working increases and decreases you will have to be aware of which stitch (sc or dc) is next in the sequence.

Difficulty:  Intermediate

Size:  Finished measurement: 46″ bust 

Materials:   Yarn: 12 skeins Rowan Purelife Organic Wool Naturally Dyed (DK weight) 50 g, 137 yds per sk., Crochet hooks sizes J ( 6.00 mm) and K ( 6.50 mm), (7) 7/8″ buttons, yarn needle

Gauge:   12 stitches in pattern stitch = 4″,  13 rows in pattern stitch = 4″

Back

With K, ch 66.  Switch to J. Sc in 2nd ch from hook *dc in next ch, sc in next ch,** repeat from * to ** to end. (65 sts) Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in 1st st (edge st made) *sc in next st, dc in next st**.  Repeat from * to ** to last 2 sts. Sc in next st, sc in last st (edge st made). Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, work edge st, *dc in next st, sc in next st**. Repeat from * to ** to last st. Work edge st in last st. Turn.

Rows 2 and 3 make up the stitch pattern.

Rows  4-10:  Repeat rows 2 and 3.

Row 11:  (Dec row) Ch 1, sk 1st st, work edge st in next st, work in established pattern to last 2 sts. Sk next st, work edge st in last st. Turn (63 sts)

Rows 12-19:  Work even in established pattern, working a decrease row on the 15th row  and on the 19th row.

Rows 20-25:  Work even in established pattern.

Row 26:  (inc row) Ch 1. Work edge st and 1st pattern st into 1st st from previous row (inc made). Work in pattern to last st. Work last pattern st and edge st into last st from previous row (inc made) (61 sts). Turn.

Rows 27-35:  Work even in established pattern, working an inc row on the 30th row and on the 34th row.

Rows 36-43:  Work even in pattern.

Shape Armholes

Row 1: Sl st across 7 sts, ch 1, sc in same st as last sl st, work in pattern to last 8 sts. Sc in next st, turn. (53 sts)

Row 2:  (dec row) Ch 1, sk 1st st, sc in next st, work in pattern to last 2 sts. Sk next st, sc in last st. Turn.

Row 3-6:  Work even in pattern including edge sts, working a dec row every other row (2X). Turn.

Continue to work even in pattern on 47 sts until armhole measures 8″ from beginning, ending on a WS row. Turn.

Shape Neck

Left shoulder

Row 1:  Ch 1, work edge st, work in pattern for 11 sts to last st. Work edge st. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1, work even in pattern. Fasten off.

Right shoulder

Row 1:  Sk 19 sts, attach yarn with a sl st in 20th st. Ch 1, sc in same st. work in pattern to end. Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1. Work even in pattern on 12 sts. Fasten off.

Right Front

Row 1: with K, ch 38. Switch to J. Work in pattern. ( 35 sts and 2 edge sts.)

Rows 2-9: Work even in pattern as for back.

Row 10: Work in pattern to last 5 sts.  (Make buttonhole) Ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch2, sk 2 sts, sc in next st (buttonhole made), sc in edge st.  Turn.

Continue to work a buttonhole in this manner on every 10th row.

Shape Waist

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, (dc,sc) in ch 2 sp, work in pattern to last 2 sts. Sk next st, sc in last st. (dec made). Turn.  (34 pattern sts and 2 edge sts)

Rows 12- 19:  Continue to work as for back, decreasing every 4th row 2 more times.

Row 20:  Work buttonhole, work even in pattern.

Rows 21-26:  Work even in pattern.

Row 27:  Ch 1, work in pattern to last st, work next pattern st and edge st (sc) into last st. (increase made).

Rows 28- 35:  Work in pattern, working buttonhole on row 30 and increasing at waist on row 31.

Row 36-43:  Work even in pattern. Work buttonhole on row 40. Turn.

Shape Armhole

Row 1:  Sl st across 7 sts. Ch 1, sc in last sl st made, work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in 1st st, work in pattern to last 2 sts, sk next st, sc in last st, turn.

Row 3:  Work even in pattern.

Rows 4-8: Repeat rows 2 and 3 (2X).

Rows 9-21:  Work even in pattern.

Shape Neck

Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc in 1st st, work in pattern 14 more sts, sc in next st, turn. (leave remaining sts unworked)

Row 2:  (Dec row) Ch 1, sk 1st st, sc in next st, work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 3: Work even in pattern.

Row 4-7:  Repeat rows 2 and 3 (2X).

Rows 8-10: Work even in pattern until armhole measures the same as for back. Fasten off.

Left Front

Work as for Right Front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes. Note: Begin your waist shaping at the beginning of the 11th row instead of at the end.  This will then be your side seam and the same edge where you will work your armhole shaping. When you get to the neck, sl st across 12 sts. Work on 16 sts and dec 1 st every other row (3X). Then work even until armhole measures the same as for Right Front.  Fasten off.

Sleeves ( make 2)

With K, ch 30. sc in 2nd ch from hook,( edge st)  dc in next st, work in alternating sc and dc to last ch, sc in last ch (edge st) Turn. (29 sts)

Row 2: (Inc row) (Sc, 1st pattern st) in 1st st, (increase made) work in pattern to last st, (last pattern st, sc) in last st. (increase made) (31 sts)

Row 3-4: Work even in pattern.

Row 5:  Work increase. Note: You will be working an edge st and the next applicable pattern stitch ( either sc or dc) into the 1st st for the increase. Work even in pattern to last st. Work increase. Turn.

Rows 6-48: Work in pattern, making increases on each edge every 4th row. (55 sts)

Shape Cap

Row 1:  Sl st across 7 sts.Ch 1, sc in last sl st made, work in pattern to last 6 sts. Turn. (leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 2:  Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at beg and end of row. Turn.

Rows 3-10: Work even in pattern, decreasing 1 st at ea edge on row 4 and on every other row. Turn.

Rows 11-17: Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at ea edge every row. Fasten off.

Assembling

With right sides facing each other, sew fronts to back at shoulder seams. With right sides facing each other, sew sleeve caps to fronts and backs, centering caps at shoulder seams. With right sides facing each other, sew sleeve and side seams from wrist to hem of jacket.

Cuffs

Ro 1:  With J, attach yarn on RS of sleeve hem at seam. Ch 1,working in starting chain, sc in ea ch around to beginning ch 1. Sl st in beg ch 1 to join. turn.

Ro 2:  Ch 1, sc in ea of 30 sts around, join to ch 1, turn.

Ro 3: (increase ro) Ch 1, 2 sc into next sc, sc around to last sc, 2 sc into last sc. Join and turn. ( 32 sc)

Ro 4-5:  Ch 1, work even in pattern, join, turn.

Ro 6:  Repeat round 3. (34 sc)

Ro 7-8: Repeat rounds 4-5.

Ro 9:  Repeat round 3. (36 sc)

Ro 10-11:  Repeat rounds 4-5.  Do not turn at the end of ro 11.

Ro 12:  Sl st into 36 sc. Join to 1st sl st. Fasten off, leaving an 8″ tail.  Turn up cuffs and tack into place at seam with yarn tail. Fasten off.

Collar

With J,  attach yarn with a sl st on RS of right front at neck. Ch 1, sc in ist st, sc in ea st around neck.  Work a sc2tog at front and back inside corners,  (70 sc) Fasten off.

Place a marker at the 7th stitch from the center front at each side. Attach your yarn at the 8th st with a sl st, Sc into same st, sc around neck to next marker.  Do not sc into marked st. Turn. (56 sts)

Work about 14 rows of sc or until collar measures about 2 1/2 “.  Fasten off.

Finishing

Attach yarn with a sl st at right front hem corner (RS). With K, sl st along right front, placing a sl st into the end of ea row. Sl st along lapel and around collar, along next lapel and down left front. Sl st along hem, working into the other side of your starting chain. Join with a sl st to beg sl st. Fasten off.

My jacket needed some light blocking at the collar and lapels.  Sew buttons onto left front opposite buttonholes.  Try on jacket and pin collar points as desired and sew buttons in place on collar. I also tacked my lapels down lightly. Weave in all ends.

Copyright: Carol Wolf, January 2012

 

Easy Dolman Jacket Finished!

Easy Dolman Jacket Pattern

I’ve been having a time trying to get this jacket finished!  Was it because I was simply tired of working with the same yarn and pattern for what seems like ages?  I think so!  I’m terribly fickle when it comes to yarn.  A few days of working with a particular fiber and I’m already sick of the sight of it!  I guess when you get to be my age, novelty is the spice of life.

The collar somehow morphed into a cowel that fastens on the side.  I love the pearly buttons I found at Joann’s.  You may notice that the buttonholes seem a bit too far from the right edge.  I adjusted the pattern so that this will not happen on your project.

As promised, this is an easy pattern.  It also works up fairly quickly. The color variations on the left and right fronts are not too bad.  I made an attempt to match some of the shading going across but was not completely successful. Of course, if you decide to use a solid colored yarn, you won’t have any problems.

 

Easy Dolman Jacket Pattern

Measurements: Bust and hips 52″, Length 24″ This is an oversize or plus pattern

Materials: 18 skeins Filatura Lanarota Fashion Tweed 76% Acrylic, 24% Wool, Color 7991; or about 1800 yds of worsted weight yarn. Size J and K crochet hooks, stitch markers, yarn needle, (6) 1 1/8″  buttons,

Gauge: (sc. ch 1) is considered 1 stitch. 8 stitches = 4″ and 17 rows + 4″

Stitch Pattern: Row 1  Ch 2, *(sc, ch 1) in next ch 1 sp** Repeat from * to ** to last stitch and tc from prev row, sc into base of tc. Turn.

Increase row Ch 2, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) into first ch 1 sp. Work in pattern to last ch 1 sp. (sc, ch 1, sc ch 1) in last ch 1 sp. Sc into base of tc from previous row.

The body of this jacket is worked in one piece from the bottom up.  The shoulders are seamed, the sleeves are seamed, and the sleeves are set into the armhole opening. This pattern has a cowel collar.

Note: When you are counting your stitches, your beginning ch 2 counts as 1 stitch and each (sc,ch1) counts as 1 stitch.  When you get to the end of a row, the sc that you place at the base of the tc counts as 1/2 stitch.

Body

Row 1: With J, ch 207 (not loosly). Switch to K. Sc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, * sc in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch** Repeat from * to ** to the last chain. Sc in last ch.  (103 1/2  sts) . This is the right side of your work. Turn.

Row 2 : Ch 2 ( counts as sc, ch 1), *(sc, ch 1) in next ch 1 sp** Repeat from * to ** to end of row. Sc into  base of tc from prev. row.

Rows 3-19: Repeat row 2

Work Buttonholes

Row 20: Ch 2, (sc, ch 1) in1st ch 1 sp,  Ch 3, sk next (sc, ch 1, sc). (Sc, ch 1) in next ch 1 sp.  Buttonhole made.  Continue to work in pattern for the remainer of the row. Turn.

Row 21: Work in pattern to ch 3 sp. (sc, ch 1, sc, ch1) into ch 3 sp. Continue to work in pattern to end of row.

Rows 22-51:  Or until your work measures 12″ from the beginning–Work in pattern, placing buttonholes every 16th row on right front edge. Last row should be a RS row.

Divide for Fronts

Count over 26 stitches from each front edge and place a stitch marker in the 26th stitch.

Left Front

Work in pattern to 26th st. Sc in 26th st. Turn. (25 1/2 sts)

Rows 53-85: Work in pattern. Last row will be a RS row. Fasten off.

Shape Neck

Row 86: Count over 9 ch 1 sps from edge. Attach yarn with a sl st, ch 1. (sc, ch 1) in next ch 1 sp. Work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Rows 87-102: Work in pattern on 16 1/2 sts. Fasten off

Back

On RS attach yarn with a sl st in next open st on body at armhole (st after marker). Ch 1, work in pattern to next st marker. Turn. Work in pattern until back measures same as front from armhole. Fasten off.

Right Front

On RS attach yarn at next st marker with a sl st. Ch 1, work in pattern, making right front the same as left front. Continue to work buttonholes every 16th row. Your last buttonhole will be on the last row before neck shaping. Shape neck as for left front but reverse shaping.  Work in pattern until right front measures same as left front and back to shoulder. Fasten off.

Sleeves (make 2)

With J, ch 49. Switch to K, work in pattern as for body to end of ch. Turn.

Rows 2-4: Work in pattern on 24 1/2 sts.

Row 5 (Increase Row) : Ch 2, (sc, ch 1, sc,ch 1) in first ch sp. Work in pattern to last ch sp. (Sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1) in last ch sp. Sc in last st. ( increase of 2 sts made)

Rows 6-60: Work in pattern, working an increase row every 5th row.(48 1/2 sts) Fasten off.

Sleeve Trim: Now is the time to lengthen your sleeves if you would like. On RS attach yarn with a sl st at cuff corner. Working in starting chain, Ch 2, (sc, ch1) in next ch 1 sp.  Work in pattern to end. Join to ist st with a sl st. Turn.  Work 2 more rows or until a suitable length.  Fasten off.

Assembling Sleeves

With right sides facing each other, sew shoulder seams of body taking up 17 1/2 sts on back. With right sides facing each other, sew sleeve seams together. Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise and mark the midpoint of the shoulder. Turn jacket inside out with armhole facing you. Make sure that sleeve is right side out. Place mark at shoulder seam against shoulder seam on jacket. Place sleeve seam at underarm on jacket. Pin or clip sleeve into place around armhole. Sew seam.

Collar

With J, attach yarn on RS at right front corner of neck edge with a sl st. Ch 1. Sc into same st as join. Sc into ea sc and ea ch 1 sp. When you get to the buttonhole ch, work 3 sc into ch. Continue to sc around neck to end. (about 99 sc). Turn.

Rows 2-14: Work in sc to row 14. Turn

Row 15:  Ch 1, work 3 sc, ch 3, ( buttonhole made). Work in sc to end of row. Turn.

Row 16: Ch 1, work in sc to ch 3 sp. Work 3 sc into ch sp. Continue to work in sc to end of row. Turn.

Rows: 17-19: Work in sc. Fasten off.

Hem Trim

The hem will have a loose appearance because of the nature of the pattern stitch.  To fix this, With K, attach yarn on RS bottom corner of left front with a sl st. Ch 2. Working in pattern, place a (sc, ch 1) into ea ch 1 sp of starting ch. Sc in last st. Turn. Work 2 more rows along hem. Fasten off.

Front Trim

With J, attach yarn on RS on left front at top corner of collar. Ch 1. * sc in ends of next 2 rows. Sk 1 row**  Repeat from * to ** to end of row. Work 1 more sc. Fasten off. Attach yarn on RS of bottom corner of right front and work trim same as for left front. Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Sew buttons on left front opposite buttonholes.

Copyright Carol Wolf, October 2011