Come Again Cardigan

Rebirth of the Autumn Rose Cardi

The Come Again Cardigan was designed directly from the Autumn Rose Pattern.  Because of the errors in the original pattern, it had to be discarded but I hope that the new version will be easier to understand.  Please alert me to any mistakes or confusing language if you decide to make this project.  I’ve gone over it carefully but these things have a way of creeping in!

The Come Again Cardigan is rated as “advanced difficulty”.   This is not because it is hard to work but because you must keep very careful track of what you are doing.  The waist shaping is accomplished by using progressively smaller hooks.  When working the sleeve cap, the shells of the stitch pattern are reduced gradually.

I must put in a good word for this wonderful microfiber yarn.  I’ve worked with Caron Country  before but this time I really appreciated the easy way that the yarn slides off the hook.  It also has a beautiful sheen which makes for great stitch definition.  There’s a lot of discussion about splitting on Ravelry but with this pattern you’ll be using an H hook and I encountered no splitting at all.  Just take care as you work into your loops to be sure to get under all the plies of the yarn.

The pattern for the Come Again Cardigan is here: Come Again Cardigan C

 

Melissa Twinset

 Melissa Twinset   PDF Pattern File

Melissa Twinset

Difficulty:  Intermediate

Both garments of the twinset incorporate waistline shaping. If you prefer to omit this shaping you can simply work even in the pattern instead of taking the decreases and increases at the waist.

Melissa Sweater

Materials:  Filatura Lanarota Cool Cotton Double Knitting Weight, 52% Cotton, 48% Acrylic, 50 grams, 130 yds, 9 skeins;  Crochet Hooks size H and I, yarn needle, stitch markers, (1 ) 3/4″ button

Size: 40″ Bust and Hips

Gauge: In losenge pattern, 7 (cluster, ch1) = 4″ and 5 double rows (losenge row and sc row) = 4″

In alternate single crochet row/double crochet row pattern, 24 sts = 4″ and 10 rows = 4″

NOTE: Ch 3 counts as a stitch throughout the sweater pattern.

Cluster Stitch:  In next stitch, (Yo, insert hook in stitch,yo, pull yarn through, yo, pull yarn through 2 loops) three times.  Yo, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

Losenge Pattern: Row 1:  Ch 1, sc in ea st across, turn.  The single crochet row is the right side of your work.

Row 2: Ch 3, Sk 1st sc, *cluster in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc** repeat from * to ** to last 2 sc. Cluster in next sc, dc in last sc. Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in ist dc, *sc in top of cluster, sc in next ch sp** repeat from * to ** to tc from prev. row. Sc in 3rd ch of tc. Turn.

Rows 2 and 3 make up the losenge pattern

Alternate sc row / dc row pattern: Work one row of sc, work one row of dc. Repeat for pattern.

With I hook, ch 68. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. Turn

Rows 2-17: Work rows 2 and 3 of losenge pattern. (67 sts)

Shape waist:

Row 1 (decrease row) Ch 1, sc in 1st 8 sc. Sc 2tog over next 2 sc, (sc in next 8 sc, sc 2tog over next 2 sc) five times more. Sc in remaining sc to end of row, Turn. (61 sts)

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in ea st across. Turn,

Row 5: (increase row) Ch 1, sc in 1st 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc) five times more. Sc in remaining sts to end of row.  Turn (67 sts)

Begin alternate sc row/dc row pattern

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ea st across.  Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn.

Rows 3- 15: Repeat rows 1 and 2 consecutively.

Row 16: Repeat row 1.

Shape armholes

Row 1: Sl st in 1st 8 sc, ch 3, dc in ea sc to last 8 sts. Dc in next st. Turn, leaving remaining sts unworked.

(53 sts)

Rows 2-20: Repeat rows 1 and 2 of  alternate sc row/dc row pattern. Turn.

Shape neck

Ch 1,  sc into 1st 17 sts. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc into ea st.  Fasten off.

On right side, attach yarn with a sl st in 17th dc from LEFT edge. Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in ea st across. Turn

Row 2:  Ch 3, dc in ea st. Fasten off (17 sts)

Right Front

Ch 34.  Work losenge pattern over 33 sts until right side measures the same as back for losenge pattern.

Shape waist: Work row 1 of waist shaping the same as for back except decrease after 8 sc (three times).   Continue to work the waist the same as for back to increase row. Work row 5 of waist shaping the same as for back except increase  after 8 sc (three times).

Begin alternate sc row/dc row pattern same as for back until right front measures the same as back to bottom of armhole. Sl st across 1st 8 sc, ch 3, dc in ea st to end. Turn. (26 sts) Leave remaining sts unworked.

Continue to work in alternate sc row/dc row pattern until piece measures 4 1/2″ from beginning of armhole. End on a WS row. Fasten off.

Shape neck

On right side, attach yarn with a sl st in 10th dc . Ch 1, sc in same st as join. Sc in ea st to end of row. Turn (17 sts)

Work the alternate sc row/dc row pattern until you have worked 9 rows, ending with a WS row. Fasten off.

Left Side

Work same as for right side reversing armhole and neck shaping.

Sleeves ( make 2)

Ch 44. Sc in 2nd ch and in ea ch across. Turn. (43 sts)

Rows 2- Repeat rows 2 and 3 of losenge pattern 3 times.

Begin sleeve increases

Row 1:( increase row)  Ch 3, dc in base of tc, dc in ea st across to last st. 2 dc in last st. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ea st across.  Turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in ea st across.  Turn.

Row 5: Repeat row 2

Rows 6-26: Repeat rows 1-5 consecutively. Make sure you end with a dc row (ws)

Rows 27-32: Work even in alternate sc row/ dc row pattern, ending with a dc row. Fasten off.

Joining

With right sides facing each other, whip stitch shoulder seams. Attach sleeves as for Ecru Spring Jacket (see photo below).

Sew side seams and weave in all ends.

Neck Edging

Row 1:  With H, attach yarn with a sl st on RS of right front neck corner. Ch 1, sc in same place as join. Sc in next 8 sts. Sc 2tog at corner. Sc in ea row end (11 sts). Sc2tog at corner. Sc 18 across back neck edge. Sc2tog at corner.  Sc 7 to left neck corner. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, work cluster row. Turn

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, sc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, sc in next 10 sts, sc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, sc in next 20 sts, sc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, sc in next 8 sc, sc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, sc in next 8 sts. Turn.

Row 4: Work cluster row.  Turn. Your pattern will be off-set because of the decreases in row 3.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, sc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, sc in next 8 sts, sc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, sc in next 18 sts, sc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, scsc2 tog over next cluster and ch 1 sp, in next 8 sts, sc in next 8 sts. Turn

Row 6: Work cluster row. Turn,

Row 7 Ch 1, sc in ea st around neck. Do not fasten off.

 Left Front Edge

Row 1: 2 sc in coner st of neck, work 65 sc to bottom edge of left front. Turn

Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, sc in ea st. Turn. After row 3, do not tuen. Fasten off.

Right Front Edge

On right side attach yarn with a sl st on bottom right front corner. Ch 1, sc in same place as join. Work 65 sc along right front edge to corner. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in ea st to end of row. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in ea st to ch 2 sp. 2 sc in ch 2 sp, sc in last sc. Fasten off.  Weave in all ends. Sew button on left front across from buttonhole.

Shell Pattern

Materials:    Filatura Lanarota Cool Cotton Double Knitting Weight, 52% Cotton, 48% Acrylic, 50 grams, 130 yds, 6 skeins;  Crochet Hooks size H and I, yarn needle, stitch markers,

Size: 42″ Bust and Hips

Gauge: 12 st = 4″ and 18 rows = 5″ in pattern

Pattern: This stitch pattern has one single crochet edge stitch on each end of the row. The pattern is worked after the first edge stitch and along the row to the last edge stitch.  The edge stitches do not count as stitches.

Row 1: Ch 1, work 1 sc in 1st st (edge st), *sc in next st, dc in next st**. Repeat from * to ** to last st. Sc in last st ( edge st). Turn

Row 2: Ch 1,work 1 sc in 1st st, *dc in next st, sc in next st**. Repeat from * to ** to last st. Sc in last st. Turn.

Pattern decreases: sk 1st st, ch 1,sc in next st, work row 1 or 2 of pattern as appropriate to last 2 sts. Sk next st. Sc in last st. Turn.

Pattern increases: If working into row 1,  Ch 1,(sc,dc) into 1st st. Continue in pattern to last st. (Dc,sc) into last st. Turn.

If working into row 2, Ch 1,(sc,sc) into 1st st. Continue to work in pattern to last st. (sc,sc) into last st. Turn.

Front and Back (make 2) **Make your chain with the J hook because the stitches in this pattern really spread out and you want to be sure that your hem area is the correct width.

With J hook, ch 64. With I hook, sc into 2nd ch from hook. *Sc into next ch, dc into next ch** to last 2 chs. sc into ea of last 2 chs. Turn.

Rows 2-16: Beginning with row 2, repeat rows 1 and 2.

Shape Waist:

Row 17: Work pattern decrease at the beginning and end of row. Turn.

Rows 18-19: Work even in pattern. Turn.

Row 20: Work pattern decrease at the beginning and end of row. Turn.

Rows 21-22: Work even in pattern. Turn

Row 23: Work pattern decrease at the beginning and end of row. Turn.

Row 24-25: Work even in pattern. Turn

Row 26: Work pattern increase for appropriate row at the beginning and end of the row. Turn.

Rows 27-28: Work even in pattern. Turn.

Row 29: Work pattern increase for appropriate row at the beginning and end of the row. Turn.

Rows 30-31: Work even in pattern. Turn.

Row 32:  Work pattern increase for appropriate row at the beginning and end of the row. Turn.

Rows 33-47: Work even in pattern. Turn.

Shape Armholes

Row 1: Sl st across 7 sts, ch 1, sc in next st. Work in pattern to last 8 sts. Sc in last st. Leave remaining sts unworked. ( 49 sts and 2 edge sts) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sk 1st st, sc in next st. Follow pattern to last 2 sts. Sk next st. Sc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Work even in pattern

Row 4: Rep row 2.

Row 5: Rep. row 3.

Row 6: Rep row 2.

Row 7-15: Rep. row 3.

Shape Neck

Right Side: Ch 1, sc in ist st. Work in pattern over next 11 sts. Sc in next st. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 2: Work a decrease at neck edge. Continue in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 3: Work in pattern to last 2 sts. Decrease over last 2 sts. Turn. ( 9 sts and 2 edge sts)

Rows 4-12: Work even in pattern. Fasten off.

Left Side

Row 1: On right side, attach yarn with a sl st in 13th st from the left armhole edge. Ch 1, sc in same st.Work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sk 1st st. Sc in next st. Work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 3: Work in pattern to last 2 sts. Decrease over next 2 sts. Turn.

Work even in pattern until left armhole is the same length as right armhole. Fasten off.

Joining

Placing your back and front with right sides faceing each other, whip st the shoulder seams and the side seams.

Neck, armhole, and bottom trim

Round 1: With hook H, attach yarn with a sl st at seam. Ch 1, sc arouns edge, making sure edging lies flat and working sc2tog at the corners of the neck and armholes. Join with a sl st to 1st sc.Turn.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in ea st around, working sc 2tog in corners. Join with a sl st to ist sc. Turn.

Round 3: Rep. Round 2. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

Copyright Carol Wolf, April 2011

 

Ecru Spring Jacket

Do not be afraid to try thread!  This jacket is worked holding 2 strands of size 10 thread together throughout. Imagine that you are using sport or fingering yarn.  Just be sure to pick up both threads with each stitch. Unlike crocheting with a single strand of thread, your work will progress quickly.

I used Woolworth 4 Cord Crochet Thread (polyester) that I found in a big bag at Goodwill.  This thread was wonderful to work with.  It was durable but a little springy and made a very nice fabric. It’s a shame that this thread has been discontinued because I like it so much better than cotton.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Size: 39″ Bust and 41″ Hips (Hips flare out slightly because of loosness of starting chain. There is no shaping in this jacket.)

Materials: About 2700 yards of size 10 thread, Ecru. Crochet hook size 3.50 E. Stitch markers, (6) 1/2″  buttons, yarn needle

Gauge: With 2 strands held together, 27 stitches and 22 rows = 4″ blocked

Note: You will hold 2 strands of thread together throughout this pattern.

Back

Ch 122. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in inext ch. *Ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch**.  Repeat from * to ** to end of chain. Mark as right side of fabric. Turn.

Rows 2-62: Ch 1. sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 chs. Sc in next sc, * ch2, sk 2 chs, sc in next sc **.  Repeat from * to ** to end of row. Turn.

Shape Armhole

Row 1: Sl st across 13 sts, placing a sl st into ea sc and into ea ch. End with a sl st in 13th sc. Ch 1, sc in same st, continue to work in pattern to last 13 sts. Sc in next sc. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

Rows 2:  Work even in pattern to last sc.  Sc into last sc.  Leave remaining sl sts unworked. Turn.

Rows 3-43: Work even in pattern. Fasten off.

Right Front

Ch 62. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc into next ch. *Ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch**.  Repeat from * to ** to end of chain. Mark as right side of fabric. Turn.

Rows 2-72: Work as for back, making armhole on right side the same way and continuing to work until you have completed 72 rows.

Shape Neck

You will be skipping the first stitch at the neck edge on every row. Your first stitch should always be a sc at the neck edge.  When you come back to the neck edge on the next row, your last stitch will always be a sc.

Row 1: Ch 1, sk 1st sc, sc into next ch, ch 1, sk next ch, sc into next sc. Continue in pattern stitch to end of row.  Turn.

Row 2: Work in pattern to last (sc, ch 1, sc) group. Sc in next sc, sc in next ch. Leave remaining sc unworked. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, Sk 1st sc, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 4: Work in pattern to last (sc, ch2, sc) group. Sc in next sc,ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch. Leave remaining sc unworked. Turn.

Rows 5-28: Repeat rows 1-4 consecutively.

Rows 29-end: Work even in pattern until front measures the same as back from hem and has the same number of rows. Fasten off.

Left Front

Work as for right front but reverse neck and armhole shaping.

Sleeves (Make 2)

You will be increasing 1 stitch at each end every other row.

Ch 68. Work in body pattern to end of ch. Mark as right side of fabric, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc in next sc. Work pattern to last sc. 2 sc in last sc. Turn

Row 3: Ch 1, sc into ea of 1st 2 sc. Work in pattern to last 2 sc. Sc into ea of last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 1, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 2 sc. Sc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next sc. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 3 sts. Sc in next sc, ch 1, sk next ch, sc in last sc. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 3 sts. Sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in last sc. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 4 sts. Sc in next sc, ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in last sc. Turn.

Rows: 8-48: Repeat rows 2 through 7 consecutively, ending with row 5. Turn

Rows: 49-56: Work row 5 evenly until you have worked 56 rows total. Fasten off.

Joining

Block pieces lightly. Weave in all ends.  With right sides together, seam shoulder seams together with a whip stitch or crochet together using 1 strand of thread and a small hook. With right sides together, join sleeves to body sections, placing center of top of sleeve at shoulder seam and pivoting at underarm to attach to armhole extension. ( See photo ). With right sides together, sew or crochet sleeve underarm seams and side seams.

 

Bottom Trim

Attach yarn at outside corner of lower left front. Ch 1, sc in join. *Sc in next ch,sk next ch, sc in next sc** Repeat from * to ** along bottom of jacket.  You should end up with 163 sc.  If you do not, then go back and add or subtract stitches until you have the right number.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, *sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc** repeat from * to ** along bottom edge to end of row. Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, *sc in ea of next 5 dc, sl st in next sc** Repeat from * to ** to last 6 sts. Sc in ea of last 5 dc, sc in last sc. Fasten off.

Front and Neck Edging

Attach yarn on outside bottom corner of right front. Ch 1, sc in join. Sc in next end-of-row (eor), sc in next eor, *sk 1 eor, sc in ea of next 2 eor**.  Repeat from * to ** until you have worked 50 sc. Work 2 sc in corner st at bottom of V-neck, work 106 sc around neck to st at bottom of V-neck on left front. 2 sc into corner st of  V-neck. Work 51 sc along left front as for right front. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc into ea sc along fronts and neck. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, Sc into 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, (sc into ea of next 8 sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc) 5 times more. 2 sc into next st, sc around neck, working 2sctog at shoulder seams and placing 2 sc into corner st at bottom of V-neck. Sc along left front edge. Turn.

Row 4:  Ch 1. Sc into ea sc along left front, neck edge, and right front, placing 2 sc into ea ch 2 sp on right front. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1. Sc into ea st around neck and fronts. Fasten off.

Sleeve Trim

This will be worked in the same manner as the bottom trim with the exception that it will be worked in rounds.

Attach thread at underarm seam of sleeve at wrist on right side. Ch 1, sc in join. Work 48 sc around sleeve as you did for the bottom of the jacket. Join with a sl st to 1st sc. Turn.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in join. *Sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc** Repeat from * to ** around the sleeve edge to last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, join with sl st to 1st sc. Turn.

Round 3:  Ch 1, sc in join. *Sc in ea of next 5 dc, sl st in next sc** Repeat from * to ** around sleeve to last 5 dc. Sc in ea of last 5 dc. Sl st to join with 1st sc. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends.  Block seams and edging. Sew buttons onto left front opposite buttonholes.

Copyright: Carol Wolf, March 2011

 

Enchanted Evening Cardigan

 

This pattern uses two strands of size 10 thread held together throughout.  The openwork pattern of the body of the sweater changes to straight triple crochet on the sleeves to make increases easier.  Pattern pieces are all rectangular except for the sleeves which taper to the wrist.

I like to chain 2 instead of chain 3 at the beginning of a row when making double crochet stitches.  If you prefer to chain 3, be aware that your edge will be a bit wavy and not straight.  The chain 2 counts as a stitch throughout this pattern.  When you reach the end of a row and must place your last  single crochet into the 2nd chain of the turning chain from the previous row.  When working the sleeves, the ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as a triple crochet stitch.

Size: 44″ Bust and Hips

Materials: Department 71 Size 8 Perle Cotton, 50 grams, 440 yds. 8 balls, Black. Size E (3.50mm) crochet hook, 3/8″ black button

Gauge: Body Pattern: 3 shells and 2 ch 3 sps ( shell, ch 3, shell, ch 3, shell ) = 4″

                                 12 row = 4″

            Sleeve Pattern: 16 sts and 7 rows = 4″

Stitches Used:  ch, sc, sc 2tog, dc, tr, shell (5 dc into same ch 3 sp)

Lower back

Holding 2 strands of thread together, ch 114.  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch1, sk 1 ch, *sc into next ch, ch3, sk 3 chs**. Repeat from * to ** to last 3 chs. Sc into next ch, ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc into last ch.  This is the right side of your work. Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 2, dc into 1st sc, 2 dc into 1st ch 1 sp.  * sk next sc, 5 dc ( shell)  into next ch 3 sp**.  Repeat from * to ** to last 3 sts.  Sk next sc, 2 dc into next ch 1 sp, dc in next sc. Turn

Row 3:  Sc into 1st dc, ch 1, sk 2 dc, *sc into next dc, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc into next dc**.  Repeat from * to ** to the last 3 sts. Sc into next dc, ch1, sk next dc, sc into top of tc from prev. row. Turn.

Rows 4- 22:  Repeat rows 2 and 3 nineteen(19) times more. Make sure you end on the wrong side of the piece. Turn.

Shape armhole:  Right side-sl st into the next 11 sts and chs.  You will place your last stitch into the 5th dc of the 1st complete shell.  Ch 1, sc into same st, ch 3, continue to work pattern to last complete shell. Sc in 1st dc of shell.  Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 5 ( counts as dc, ch3) *sk next 3 chs, 5dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3**  Repeat pattern to last sc. Dc in last sc. Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in 1st dc, *ch 3, sk 3 chs, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next dc** Repeat pattern to Ch 5 from prev row. Ch 3, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch. Turn.

Rows 4-20:  Repeat rows 1 and 2 or until piece measures 8 1/2″ from beginning of armhole shaping. Fasten off.

Right Front

Ch 58. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, *sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 chs** Repeat from * to ** to last 2 chs. Ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc in last ch. Turn.

Rows 2-22:  Work as for lower back until piece measures the same as lower back before armhold shaping.

Shape Armhole:  Work right armhole shaping the same as for back. Continue working in pattern to front edge of right front piece. Work until armhole measures 4″, ending at armhole edge.

Shape Neck:  Work pattern across 4 shells ending with a sc in last dc of last shell. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 2.  Four dc in 1st ch 3 sp, 5 dc in next ch 3 sp…work in pattern to end of row. Turn

Row 3:  Work in pattern to last shell. Ch 3, sc in top of tc from prev. row. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until armhole measures same as for back. End on a WS row. Fasten off

Left Front

Work same as for right front but reverse armhole and neck shaping.

Sleeves:

Ch 41. Sc into 2nd ch from hook and into ea ch across. Turn

Row 1: Ch 3. tr into ea st across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3. Tr into base of tc just made. Tr into ea st across to last st (tc from prev row) 2 tr into top of tc. Turn. (2 increases made).

Rows 3-33: Repeat rows 1 and 2.  Fasten off (68 sts)

Joining: With right sides facing each other, stitch shoulder seams of back and both fronts.  With right sides together, center top of sleeves over shoulder seams and stitch to armhole corner. Pivot sleeve and sew 2″ of long side of sleeve to armhole extensions on back and fronts.  With right sides together, stitch underarm seams and side seams of fronts.

Bottom Edging

Round 1:  Attach yarn on RS at bottom left front corner.  Ch 1, sc into 1st sc, sc into  ch 1 sp, sc into next sc. *3 sc into next ch 3 sp ( you will be working around the ch 3 from the starting ch and from the row below the starting ch, having 2 ch 3′s enclosed in your 3 sc’s ), sc in next sc** Repeat from * to ** side seam. [Sc in next sc, sc into ch 1 sp] twice. Sc into next sc. Repeat from * to ** around bottom in this manner, working side seam as stated above. until you come to the right front edge. 3 sc into corner sc. Work 79 sc along front edge ( place 1 sc into ea sc and ea dc at end of ea row). 2 sc into corner st at neck edge, sc into ea of next 2 dc, [3 sc into ch 3 sp, sc into ea of next 5 dc] twice. sc into next ch 3 sp,  Work into ends of rows as for front to ch 3 sp in corner. sc into ch 3 sp, *sc into ea dc, 3 sc into ea ch 3 sp** to front corner st, 3 sc into corner st, work sc along front edge as for opposite front ( 79 sts).  Turn.

Round 2:  Sc along front edge, place 3 sc into top corner st at neck, sc around neck placing 1 sc into ea st but skipping the center sc over ea ch 3 sp. Sc  2 tog at inside corners. 3 sc into opposite neck corner st, sc into ea sc down center front, 3 sc into bottom corner st, Sc along bottom edge, skipping middle sc over ch 3 sp to corner. Turn

Row 3: Ch 1, sc into ea st along bottom edge to corner. Turn.

Row 4:  Ch 3, tr into 1st 2 sc. 4 tr into ea sc around bottom edge to last 3 sts. Tr into ea of last 3 sts. Fasten off

Neck Edge:

Round 1:  Attach yarn on rs neck corner st of right front. Ch 1, sc in same place. Sc around neck, skipping middle sc over ch 3 sp to corner and working a sc2tog in ea inside corner. Turn

Round 2:  Ch 3, tr into ea of next 2 sc, 4 tr into ea sc around neck to last 3 sc. Tr into ea of last 3 sc. Fasten off.

Front Edges

Right Front Edge:

Attach yarn on RS in corner st near hem. Ch 1. sc in same place, 5 dc into end of ruffle row, sk 1 row, sc into end of next row, *sk 1 sc, dc into next sc, sk 1 sc, sc into next sc**.  Repeat from * to **  End with 5 dc into end of ruffle row at neck. Sc into top of tr of ruffle row. Fasten off

Left Front Edge:

On RS attach yarn at neck edge. Sk 1 row,  5 dc into end of next row, *sk 1 sc, sc into next sc, sk 1 sc, 5 dc into next sc** Repeat from * to ** along front edge to bottom, ending with 5 dc into end of ruffle row, sc into top of tr from ruffle row.  Fasten off.

Lightly block edges of cardigan  Weave in ends. Sew small button at right front neck edge.  Use space between Tr stitches as buttonhole.

Copyright Carol Wolf, March 2011

 

Bring in Spring!

While I’m not a big fan of stash, I found some black thread on sale last year and bought enough to make a sweater.  I had resolved to begin working more with thread and other similar lighter weight yarns because I was getting tired of the bulk inherent in crocheted fabric.  Now is a good time to break out that black thread and begin a spring project.

I decided on a light-weight sweater that can be thrown over a tank top or a long-sleeved t-shirt.  At this point, it’s still in the planning stages.  I might do a small ruffle around the neckline and at the bottom or try to find an edging that isn’t too fussy.  So far, I’ve completed the back.  My attempts at working with one strand of thread were a dismal failure so I opted to hold 2 strands together.  This is similar to crocheting with sport weight yarn and is much less picky than trying to maneuver a tiny hook around!  Stay tuned for this free pattern when I finish my Enchanted Evening Cardigan.

 

Airy Drawstring Cardi

 

 After my disappointment with the Ipanema pattern I was in a quandary about what to make with the 19 skeins of silk/cotton blend that I had purchased.  I scoured my books and magazines but, in the end, decided to write my own pattern for a spring cardigan.

The Airy Drawstring Cardi worked up well with this yarn.  If you prefer not to use cotton, you can use any other worsted weight yarn and still have a good result.  I think that this is my best pattern yet.  It drapes well and is very easy to wear.  Since I don’t use testers, please let me know if you spot an error in the pattern.  I’ve proofread this exhaustively for clarity and accuracy.

 

Airy Drawstring Cardi

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Size: 44″ bust and hips

Materials: 14 skeins RY Silk Cotton Classic Yarns shade 683 Mink ( This is a cotton blend worsted weight yarn.)  After working with this I think that any worsted weight yarn ( Size 4 ) will be suitable for this pattern. Size I crochet hook, size H crochet hook, stitch markers, yarn needle,  (2) 1/2″ buttons, 1/2″ ribbon (optional)

Gauge: 14 sts = 4″ in working in body pattern,  Row gauge is immaterial because you work to measurement

17 sts and 10 rows = 4″ in mesh pattern

Stitches used: sl st, ch, sc, hdc, dc, shell (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) all into the same st, sc2tog

The chain 4 at the beginning of a  body pattern row counts as (dc, ch 1).   The ch 3 at the beginning of a mesh pattern row counts as (hdc, ch 1).

Pattern Stitch for body: Multiple of 6 plus 2 stitches. Chain required number of chains. sc in 2nd ch from hook, *sk 2 chs, shell in next ch, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch*, Repeat from * to * across to last 3 chs. Sk 2 chs, sc in last ch. Turn.

Row 1:  Ch 4. Dc in 1st sc, *sk next dc and next ch, sc into next dc (the middle dc of the next shell), sk next ch and next dc, shell in next sc.**  Repeat from * to ** to last shell. Sc into middle dc of shell. Dc, ch 1, dc. into last sc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc into 1st dc.  *Sk next ch 1 and next dc. Shell into next sc, sk next dc,  and ch 1, sc into next dc (the middle dc of the next shell)**. Repeat from * to ** to last 4 sts. Shell into next sc. Sc into 3rd ch of tc from prev. row. Turn.

Repeat these two rows for the pattern.

Sleeve Mesh Pattern: Chain the required number of chains. Hdc into 3rd ch from hook, (counts as hdc, ch 1, hdc)*ch 1, sk 1 ch, hdc into next ch**. Repeat from * to ** to last 3 ch. Hdc into next ch, ch 1, Hdc into last ch. Turn.

Row 1: Ch 3, * sk next ch, hdc into next hdc*. Repeat from * to * to last hdc. Hdc into last hdc, ch 1, sk 1 ch, hdc into 2nd ch of tc from row below. Turn

Repeat row 1 for mesh pattern.

Mesh Increase at beginning of row: Ch 3,( hdc, ch1) into 1st ch space. Hdc into next hdc, ch1, sk next ch. Follow mesh pattern.

Mesh increase at end of row: Follow mesh pattern to last 3 sts. Hdc into next  hdc. Ch1, hdc into next ch space. Ch1, hdc into 2nd ch of tc from row below.

Lower Back: Ch 80.  Mark first row as the right side. Work pattern stitch for body as described above until piece measres 7″ from beginning. 

Cord Insert:  Row 1: Ch 1. Sc into 1st st and into ea st and ch sp across the row. Turn.  Row 2:   Ch 1, sc into ea st across the row. Turn.  Row 3:  Ch 3 (counts as dc, ch1) sk ist sc, * dc into next sc, ch 1, sk next sc**. Repeat from * to ** across the row to the last 3 sts. dc in next st, ch 1, sk next sc, dc into last sc. Turn. Row 4: Repeat row 1.  Row 5:  Repeat row 2.

Upper Back: Row 1: Ch 4, dc in 1st sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, *shell in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc** Continue to work in pattern stitch for body, repeating  from * to ** to last sc.  (Dc,ch1,dc) in last sc. Turn. Continue to work in pattern until piece measures 13″ from hem.

Armhole Shaping:  Sl st over 6 sts. (Dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc. Work in pattern stitch for body to last 7 sts. (Dc, ch 1, dc) into next sc.  Leave last 6 sts unworked. Turn. Continue to work in pattern until armhole height measures 9 1/2″. Fasten off.

Right Front:  Ch 43. Work in pattern stitch for body as for back until right front measures the same as lower back.  Continue to work cord insert as for back.  Work upper front as for upper back until it measures the same length as upper back before the armhole shaping.  Repeat the armhole shaping on right side only, (sl st over 6 sts) working in pattern stitch for body to the end of the row. Work right front until piece measures 4″ from beginning of underarm shaping ending at center front of piece.

Neck shaping:  Sl st over 19 sts and chs, ending with a sl st in the middle dc of a shell. ( Ch1, sc) in same st. Work in pattern stitch for body until armhole height measures the same as the back.  Fasten off.

Left Front:  Work as for right front reversing armhole and neck shaping.

Sleeves- Make 2:  Sleeves are worked in mesh pattern.Ch 38. Work in mesh pattern for 1 row. Row 2: Increase at beginning and end of the row. Work in mesh pattern to row 6. Increase at beginning and end of row 6. Continue in mesh pattern, increasing at the beginning and end of every 6th row 6 more times. Work 2 rows even. Fasten off.

Joining:   Block pieces before joining them. Once dry, place back onto a table with right side facing you. Place right and left front pieces onto back with wrong side facing you. Whip stitch shoulder seams, matching back to front stitches. 

Turn the sweater over so that the right sides of the back and fronts are up, making sure that the pieces are spread out. Mark the center of the top of one sleeve with a stitch marker. Place the right side of the sleeve face down onto the right side of the back and front with the center of the sleeve at the shoulder seam.  The last stitch of  the top of the sleeve should meet the corner where the armhole shaping begins on the front and back. Whip stitch this seam together. Now go back and, taking up 1 1/2 ” of the sleeve underarm, pin this part to the underarm extension on your back and front. (See drawing) Repeat on the other side and sew both small seams. Do the same for the other sleeve.

With right sides facing each other, pin the side seams and the sleeve seams of both sides. Whip stitch these seams. Weave in all ends.

 Bottom Edging: With Hook H, on wrong side, attach yarn with a sl st at bottom corner of right front. Sc into ea ch around. You’ll be working into the foundation chain of your body pieces.

Row 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2). Sk 2 sts, dc into next st. * Ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc into next st** Repeat from * to ** to end of row. Your last st should be a dc.  If you have an incorrect outcome, you must go back and adjust your stitches by either skipping only 1 stitch in one place or skipping 3 stitches.  This adjustment will not be noticeable at the end. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1. Work  *(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) into ch 2 sp. Ch 1, sk next dc. Sc into next ch 2 sp**. Repeat from * to ** across the bottom to the end. Sc into last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1. *Sc into next 2 dc.  In next ch 3 sp work (sc, ch 3, sc). Sc into next 2 dc. Sl st in next sc.** Repeat from * to ** to last 3 sts. Sc in last 2 dc. Sl st in last sc. Fasten off. When you block your edging, pin the ch3 sts into a little point at the top of the shell.

Neckline Cord Insert:  With hook H, attach yarn at neck corner on right side of right front with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in same st.  Work a row of sc around neck edge, working sc 2tog at corners. Turn. Continue to work rows 2-5 of cord insert as for back and fronts, working 2tog at corners. Fasten off.

Front Bands:  For right front,  with H, attach yarn at right side of bottom corner with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in same st. Work 1 sc into ea “hole” along front edge, making sure that front edge lies flat and does not pull. Turn. Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first sc. Ch 1, sk 1 sc. Sc into all sts to middle of front cord insert. Ch 1, sk 1 sc, sc to end of row. Turn. Row 3:  Sl st into 1st st and into ea sc and sl st across row. Fasten off.  Left front: Attach yarn on right side of neck corner and work 2 rows of sc along left front edge making sure that you work the same number of sts as for the right front band. Work one row of al sts along edge. Fasten off.

Sleeve Trim:  Attach yarn on outside of ea sleeve edge with a sl st. Sl st around edge to end. Join with a sl st. Fasten off.

Block all your edgings.

Cords:  Using H, make 2  “I cords”.  Ch a number of chs long enough to thread through neck cord insert and tie a bow. Sl st into ea ch. Fasten off.  Repeat for waist, making cord long enough to thread through waist and tie a bow. You might want to use ribbon instead of making  “I cords”.  Weave in all ends.  Thread cords through neck and waist inserts. Sew buttons on left front opposite buttonholes at neck and waist.

Copyright Carol Wolf, February 2011