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Alder Buckthorn Fitted Jacket

07 Jan

Alder Buckthorn Fitted Jacket

The stitch pattern for this jacket is comprised of alternating single crochet and double crochet stitches. However, you will place a single crochet stitch at each edge.  This will give you a single crochet stitch at the beginning and end of each row. Your edge stitch is always independant of the pattern that you are working.  In other words, place your edge stitch and then work your pattern. Once you begin your pattern, you will always be making a single crochet stitch into a double crochet stitch from the row below and a double crochet stitch into a single crochet stitch from the row below. When you are working increases and decreases you will have to be aware of which stitch (sc or dc) is next in the sequence.

Difficulty:  Intermediate

Size:  Finished measurement: 46″ bust 

Materials:   Yarn: 12 skeins Rowan Purelife Organic Wool Naturally Dyed (DK weight) 50 g, 137 yds per sk., Crochet hooks sizes J ( 6.00 mm) and K ( 6.50 mm), (7) 7/8″ buttons, yarn needle

Gauge:   12 stitches in pattern stitch = 4″,  13 rows in pattern stitch = 4″

Back

With K, ch 66.  Switch to J. Sc in 2nd ch from hook *dc in next ch, sc in next ch,** repeat from * to ** to end. (65 sts) Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in 1st st (edge st made) *sc in next st, dc in next st**.  Repeat from * to ** to last 2 sts. Sc in next st, sc in last st (edge st made). Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 1, work edge st, *dc in next st, sc in next st**. Repeat from * to ** to last st. Work edge st in last st. Turn.

Rows 2 and 3 make up the stitch pattern.

Rows  4-10:  Repeat rows 2 and 3.

Row 11:  (Dec row) Ch 1, sk 1st st, work edge st in next st, work in established pattern to last 2 sts. Sk next st, work edge st in last st. Turn (63 sts)

Rows 12-19:  Work even in established pattern, working a decrease row on the 15th row  and on the 19th row.

Rows 20-25:  Work even in established pattern.

Row 26:  (inc row) Ch 1. Work edge st and 1st pattern st into 1st st from previous row (inc made). Work in pattern to last st. Work last pattern st and edge st into last st from previous row (inc made) (61 sts). Turn.

Rows 27-35:  Work even in established pattern, working an inc row on the 30th row and on the 34th row.

Rows 36-43:  Work even in pattern.

Shape Armholes

Row 1: Sl st across 7 sts, ch 1, sc in same st as last sl st, work in pattern to last 8 sts. Sc in next st, turn. (53 sts)

Row 2:  (dec row) Ch 1, sk 1st st, sc in next st, work in pattern to last 2 sts. Sk next st, sc in last st. Turn.

Row 3-6:  Work even in pattern including edge sts, working a dec row every other row (2X). Turn.

Continue to work even in pattern on 47 sts until armhole measures 8″ from beginning, ending on a WS row. Turn.

Shape Neck

Left shoulder

Row 1:  Ch 1, work edge st, work in pattern for 11 sts to last st. Work edge st. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 2:  Ch 1, work even in pattern. Fasten off.

Right shoulder

Row 1:  Sk 19 sts, attach yarn with a sl st in 20th st. Ch 1, sc in same st. work in pattern to end. Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1. Work even in pattern on 12 sts. Fasten off.

Right Front

Row 1: with K, ch 38. Switch to J. Work in pattern. ( 35 sts and 2 edge sts.)

Rows 2-9: Work even in pattern as for back.

Row 10: Work in pattern to last 5 sts.  (Make buttonhole) Ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch2, sk 2 sts, sc in next st (buttonhole made), sc in edge st.  Turn.

Continue to work a buttonhole in this manner on every 10th row.

Shape Waist

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, (dc,sc) in ch 2 sp, work in pattern to last 2 sts. Sk next st, sc in last st. (dec made). Turn.  (34 pattern sts and 2 edge sts)

Rows 12- 19:  Continue to work as for back, decreasing every 4th row 2 more times.

Row 20:  Work buttonhole, work even in pattern.

Rows 21-26:  Work even in pattern.

Row 27:  Ch 1, work in pattern to last st, work next pattern st and edge st (sc) into last st. (increase made).

Rows 28- 35:  Work in pattern, working buttonhole on row 30 and increasing at waist on row 31.

Row 36-43:  Work even in pattern. Work buttonhole on row 40. Turn.

Shape Armhole

Row 1:  Sl st across 7 sts. Ch 1, sc in last sl st made, work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in 1st st, work in pattern to last 2 sts, sk next st, sc in last st, turn.

Row 3:  Work even in pattern.

Rows 4-8: Repeat rows 2 and 3 (2X).

Rows 9-21:  Work even in pattern.

Shape Neck

Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc in 1st st, work in pattern 14 more sts, sc in next st, turn. (leave remaining sts unworked)

Row 2:  (Dec row) Ch 1, sk 1st st, sc in next st, work in pattern to end of row. Turn.

Row 3: Work even in pattern.

Row 4-7:  Repeat rows 2 and 3 (2X).

Rows 8-10: Work even in pattern until armhole measures the same as for back. Fasten off.

Left Front

Work as for Right Front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes. Note: Begin your waist shaping at the beginning of the 11th row instead of at the end.  This will then be your side seam and the same edge where you will work your armhole shaping. When you get to the neck, sl st across 12 sts. Work on 16 sts and dec 1 st every other row (3X). Then work even until armhole measures the same as for Right Front.  Fasten off.

Sleeves ( make 2)

With K, ch 30. sc in 2nd ch from hook,( edge st)  dc in next st, work in alternating sc and dc to last ch, sc in last ch (edge st) Turn. (29 sts)

Row 2: (Inc row) (Sc, 1st pattern st) in 1st st, (increase made) work in pattern to last st, (last pattern st, sc) in last st. (increase made) (31 sts)

Row 3-4: Work even in pattern.

Row 5:  Work increase. Note: You will be working an edge st and the next applicable pattern stitch ( either sc or dc) into the 1st st for the increase. Work even in pattern to last st. Work increase. Turn.

Rows 6-48: Work in pattern, making increases on each edge every 4th row. (55 sts)

Shape Cap

Row 1:  Sl st across 7 sts.Ch 1, sc in last sl st made, work in pattern to last 6 sts. Turn. (leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 2:  Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at beg and end of row. Turn.

Rows 3-10: Work even in pattern, decreasing 1 st at ea edge on row 4 and on every other row. Turn.

Rows 11-17: Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at ea edge every row. Fasten off.

Assembling

With right sides facing each other, sew fronts to back at shoulder seams. With right sides facing each other, sew sleeve caps to fronts and backs, centering caps at shoulder seams. With right sides facing each other, sew sleeve and side seams from wrist to hem of jacket.

Cuffs

Ro 1:  With J, attach yarn on RS of sleeve hem at seam. Ch 1,working in starting chain, sc in ea ch around to beginning ch 1. Sl st in beg ch 1 to join. turn.

Ro 2:  Ch 1, sc in ea of 30 sts around, join to ch 1, turn.

Ro 3: (increase ro) Ch 1, 2 sc into next sc, sc around to last sc, 2 sc into last sc. Join and turn. ( 32 sc)

Ro 4-5:  Ch 1, work even in pattern, join, turn.

Ro 6:  Repeat round 3. (34 sc)

Ro 7-8: Repeat rounds 4-5.

Ro 9:  Repeat round 3. (36 sc)

Ro 10-11:  Repeat rounds 4-5.  Do not turn at the end of ro 11.

Ro 12:  Sl st into 36 sc. Join to 1st sl st. Fasten off, leaving an 8″ tail.  Turn up cuffs and tack into place at seam with yarn tail. Fasten off.

Collar

With J,  attach yarn with a sl st on RS of right front at neck. Ch 1, sc in ist st, sc in ea st around neck.  Work a sc2tog at front and back inside corners,  (70 sc) Fasten off.

Place a marker at the 7th stitch from the center front at each side. Attach your yarn at the 8th st with a sl st, Sc into same st, sc around neck to next marker.  Do not sc into marked st. Turn. (56 sts)

Work about 14 rows of sc or until collar measures about 2 1/2 “.  Fasten off.

Finishing

Attach yarn with a sl st at right front hem corner (RS). With K, sl st along right front, placing a sl st into the end of ea row. Sl st along lapel and around collar, along next lapel and down left front. Sl st along hem, working into the other side of your starting chain. Join with a sl st to beg sl st. Fasten off.

My jacket needed some light blocking at the collar and lapels.  Sew buttons onto left front opposite buttonholes.  Try on jacket and pin collar points as desired and sew buttons in place on collar. I also tacked my lapels down lightly. Weave in all ends.

Copyright: Carol Wolf, January 2012

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65 Comments

Posted by on January 7, 2012 in crochet, Projects

 

Tags: , , ,

65 responses to “Alder Buckthorn Fitted Jacket

  1. brendajane

    January 7, 2012 at 4:04 pm

    Thank you for sharing your skills with us and the fantastic patterns. I sure am gonna do this. I am not really very good and awful slow. One stitch at a time.
    I am trying to get better so I may do for others.
    I pray that you and your family have a wonderful year, blessings to you and your family and thank you once again for all of the hard work you do for all of us.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      January 8, 2012 at 9:10 am

      Thank you brendajane. I wish you a very happy and healthy New Year too!

       
    • sheila

      April 16, 2012 at 4:02 pm

      Thank you for sharing this beautiful jacket. What size is that.
      Thanks,
      Sheila

       
      • Wolf Crochet

        April 16, 2012 at 4:57 pm

        Sheila, the jacket is a 46″ bust.

         
      • Tina

        April 20, 2012 at 12:21 am

        I’m sorry but I’m new in crochet I don’t know what is 46″ bust.
        Thank you,
        Sheila

         
      • Wolf Crochet

        April 20, 2012 at 5:42 am

        46″ bust means 46″ around the chest or your bra size Tina.

         
      • Tina

        April 20, 2012 at 2:28 pm

        What is ist stand for?
        inc row) Ch 1. Work edge st and 1st pattern st into ist st from previous row (inc made

        Thanks a lot

         
      • Wolf Crochet

        April 20, 2012 at 6:23 pm

        I’m sorry Tina, it is supposed to be 1st.

         
      • Tina

        April 25, 2012 at 4:18 pm

        Hello,
        I’m doing the waist dec. It says (dc,sc) in ch- 2 sp, count will be (34+2edge=36)right.
        When I do dc,sc in ch-2sp the count is 37.
        what am I missing here?

        Thanks a lot

         
      • Wolf Crochet

        April 26, 2012 at 6:00 am

        I’m not sure Tina. Your stitch count should still be the same except for the one stitch that you skipped at the underarm edge. Somewhere you must have added an extra stitch. When you place a dc and a sc into the chain 2 space, you are putting two stitches into a space that was two stitches to begin with (ch 2). That shouldn’t be changing anything. Perhaps try to work the row again and see if you come out the same.

         
  2. Wendy Geoghan

    January 7, 2012 at 4:53 pm

    Beautiful! I love the color and the stitch.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      January 8, 2012 at 9:08 am

      Thanks Wendy! It’s one of my favorite colors and not so easy to find in yarn.

       
  3. Mary Sarah

    January 8, 2012 at 1:20 am

    This is great! Love the design and details. Thanks so much for sharing!

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      January 8, 2012 at 9:08 am

      Thank you Mary Sarah!

       
  4. Ana Luisa

    January 8, 2012 at 9:48 am

    Thanks for sharing your pattern, I’ll have to try it out someday.
    would it be possible to know what sizes in mm the hooks are? I live in Mexico and we use the metric system, thanks!

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      January 9, 2012 at 9:20 am

      Hi Ana Luisa,

      I have edited the materials list to include the mm sizes of the hooks. I’ll try to remember to do this in the future. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

       
  5. crochetracey

    January 10, 2012 at 11:30 am

    This is beautiful!!! You did a great job. Love it. Thanks for sharing.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      January 10, 2012 at 2:07 pm

      Thank you Tracey!

       
  6. Olivia

    January 15, 2012 at 1:39 pm

    I really love this sweater. So pretty!

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      January 15, 2012 at 2:31 pm

      TY Olivia!

       
  7. Olivia

    January 15, 2012 at 1:42 pm

    Oh, I forgot to add the most important thing!
    Have you ever thought of creating a video showing how to make this sweater? I am a visual learner, and really appreciate seeing certain parts that seem challenging to me.

    I have never made a sweater, but would love to learn. However, I am intimidated.

    Olivia

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      January 15, 2012 at 2:30 pm

      Oh Olivia! You should start with an easy modular sweater and work from there. Modulars are mainly rectangles so they are very easy and always look great. Design Lesson I tells you exactly how to go about it in simple terms. As far as a video goes, I really only make these sweaters up for myself so I’m not sure I’m up for the extra work involved but I’ll keep it in mind.

       
    • Wolf Crochet

      June 24, 2012 at 8:32 am

      jd, you have written a lovely post on my patterns! I appreciate the publicity and the kind words.

       
  8. Stephanie B.

    June 27, 2012 at 8:07 pm

    This is a lovely cardigan thanks for sharing the pattern!

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      June 28, 2012 at 8:35 am

      Stephanie, thank for stopping by my blog and taking the time to comment. :-)

       
  9. Hally

    July 16, 2012 at 6:43 pm

    I love this design! I very much like seed stitch. It makes a nice fabric for a jacket. However, I would like to make a smaller size. Do you have a formula for cutting the size down? Thanks for any help!

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      July 16, 2012 at 7:30 pm

      I’m sorry Hally, I only make one size and I’m afraid there is no formula. There is a list of standard measurements on line for various sizes of women’s clothing. Don’t be afraid to take your measurements and make a smaller one. That is how I learned!

       
  10. Hally

    July 16, 2012 at 6:46 pm

    oh and in response, this sweater is also seed stitch but might be simpler for the lady who wanted to learn to make sweaters. I first made a couple of baby sweaters…faster results to work through the entire process of garment making.
    http://www.freepatterns.com/detail.html?code=FC00643&cat_id=332 If the link fails just search buttercup cardigan set

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      July 16, 2012 at 7:31 pm

      Thank you!

       
  11. sue

    August 18, 2012 at 7:03 am

    Which row is the3 Wrong side and which is the right side.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      August 18, 2012 at 8:43 am

      The right side of your garment is where the tail of the starting chain is on the left.

       
  12. Sue

    August 20, 2012 at 8:39 am

    Thank you so much. Really enjoying this so far.

     
  13. Sue

    August 27, 2012 at 11:07 am

    Sorry I am confused. The armhole start after row 38 on the back but after 43 on the Front. Mine do not match? Have I misread something. thanks

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      August 27, 2012 at 12:46 pm

      Sue, I am so sorry! The armhole instructions for the back should be that it starts on row 43. Have you already finished the back?

       
      • sue

        August 28, 2012 at 3:18 am

        Hi Carol, Its not a problems. I can take it back, that is what I thought but I wanted to check. Its a great pattern. Many thanks Sue

         
      • Wolf Crochet

        August 28, 2012 at 8:39 am

        Sue, you know what happened…I always make my fronts longer because I have a very full bust and it causes my tops to ride up in the front. I had intended to change the pattern instructions so that both front and back were the same but I must have missed it in the proofreading. I think that’s what happened to the buttonhole placement too. I’ll go fix it. And thank you for being my tester! :-)

         
      • Sue

        August 28, 2012 at 10:35 am

        If you ever need a tester again just let me know. thanks again Sue

         
  14. Mary D

    September 15, 2012 at 12:01 pm

    I am a what I would consider an somewhat advanced crocheter but I am a little confused, when you decrease on the fifthteen row decrease the starting stitch or do I still do the starting stitch and decrease the next stitch? Love the pattern saw one similar in Macys Dept. Store but the collar was different, when I saw this pattern on your site I was excited to get it started. Thank you.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      September 15, 2012 at 5:19 pm

      Hi Mary, you will always keep your edge stitch the same. Decrease over the next two stitches being sure that you keep the stitches in the correct order after the decrease.

       
  15. Mary D

    September 15, 2012 at 9:38 pm

    Thank you so much, I cant wait until it is finished.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      September 16, 2012 at 4:50 am

      I’d love to see a photo when it is done!

       
  16. Mary D.

    September 17, 2012 at 11:25 am

    I have one more question, on row 1 of the armhole shaping of back I should have 53 sts when I complete row, row 2 is decrease row that leaves me with 51 stitches, row 3 is even, row 4 is decrease one on each end that leaves 49 stitches, row 5 is even, row 6 is decreasing 2 which leaves 47 stitches, according to your instructions I should have 50 to continue to 8″s am I decreasing to much or should I be decreasing one stitch on one end then work even and decrease one on other end it still would leave 49. I must be missing something. I will send photo when it is done. Thank you for your help, Mary D.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      September 17, 2012 at 2:10 pm

      Hi Mary, You are correct that my stitch count is not right for that section. I went back and counted the stitches in the actual jacket and 47 is the correct number. I will change this in the pattern. Thank you for calling this to my attention. I rely heavily on smart people like you to make sure that my patterns are accurate. If you run into any more problems, please let me know.

       
  17. Mary D.

    September 17, 2012 at 5:48 pm

    Thank you Wolf Crochet, love your name lol

     
  18. Hannet

    March 6, 2013 at 7:49 am

    Hi, just wanted to say thank you for sharing this lovely jacket pattern. On my to-do list for sure, winter’s comming here and I need a new jacket. Thank again, your work is really lovely, Hannet

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      March 6, 2013 at 9:18 am

      Thank you Hannet. I hope that you have good luck with the pattern.

       
  19. Cynthia Huffman

    March 21, 2013 at 7:32 am

    You sound so nice and helpful in responses to your pattern. I am a bit new to crocheting and I love and am going to attempt to make your jacket. Nice to know that you respond so kindly to request for help.

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      March 21, 2013 at 12:41 pm

      Hi Cynthia, Thank you for your very kind comments. I am retired so I keep my blog and write crochet patterns as a hobby. The best part is being able to correspond with nice people like you! If you run into any problems with the jacket, be sure to let me know.

       
  20. Bridget

    September 3, 2013 at 1:16 pm

    I am in the process of making this wonderful jacket, but I am confused about the sleeve capping…do I crochet this capping at the end of my sleeve? Help! LOL. I’ve got the back done, and now I’m doing the front right panel right now, but I read through the pattern, and I would love it if you. Help me! Thank you!

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      September 3, 2013 at 4:23 pm

      Hi Bridget! Yes, your sleeve is worked from the bottom up and it gets wider as you go. When the entire underarm has been worked, you will make the cap. The cap is simply the part that goes from the underarm up over the shoulder. If you follow the instructions exactly, you will find that the sleeve cap will have a rounded top. I hope this helps.

       
      • Bridget

        September 5, 2013 at 2:17 am

        Yes, it clarifys it more for me…thank you! And thank you for your timel response!

         
      • Wolf Crochet

        September 5, 2013 at 5:49 am

        Bridget, let me know if you have any problems as you work the sleeves.

         
  21. Rita G

    March 18, 2014 at 4:51 pm

    How do I make this pattern for a 38″ bust?

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      March 18, 2014 at 5:16 pm

      Hi Rita, this pattern is only available in the one size. Sorry.

       
  22. Melanie

    March 20, 2014 at 4:57 pm

    Dear Carol:
    Very nice looking pattern and I appreciate the shaping and finishing details since I don’t like square sweaters! However, I am trying to work out the length of your pattern to determine if I needed additional yarn for extra length, but I’m not sure I’ve got the calculations correct. You say:

    “13 rows in pattern stitch = 4″, or 3.25 rows per inch

    Both the back and front lower body have just 43 rows before sleeve shaping.
    43 divided by 13 = 3.3; 3.3 x 4″ per set = 13.2″, so 13.2″ below sleeve shaping.

    The back sleeve opening is 8″, which must be about 26 rows, right? Plus 2 more rows are added for neck shaping, and at 13 rows/4″ each row comes to about .3 inches, so 2 x .3 = .6″ added for neck shaping
    Back totals:
    Body: 13.2″ (43 rows)
    Armhole: 8″ + Neck: .6″ = 8.6″
    TOTAL: 21.8 inches (about 71 rows)

    FRONT: the body below armholes is also 43 rows (13.2″)
    But here you say the Armhole shaping + Neck shaping together should come to 8″:
    21 rows for Armhole + 7-10 rows for Neck = 28-31 rows
    Front totals:
    Body: 13.2″ (43 rows)
    Armhole & Neck: 8″ (26 rows by the gauge, but there are 28-31 rows to work)
    TOTAL: 21.2 inches (71-74 rows)

    Is your sweater just 22″ long?
    Did the 8″ armhole take different numbers of rows in front & back?
    Is the upper back to measure “8 inches for armhole + 2 more rows” (about 8.6″ total):
    Is the upper front to measure just 8 inches total even though there are more rows than in back?
    Also, can you tell me what the sleeve circumference is at the bicep?

    I’m not arguing with your instructions, I just want to make sure I understand your intent. Also, I was just using decimals to avoid rounding errors, I’m not so picky as to measure my crochet down to a tenth of an inch–I’ll be extremely lucky if I can get within a whole inch!

    Thanks for your help and patience.
    Melanie

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      March 20, 2014 at 6:38 pm

      Hi Melanie, Wow! you have done a lot of calculating! Since I am not a professional designer and offer my patterns for free, I do not make schematics nor do I have a computer program to do my calculations. I also do not have testers. It is possible that I made an error in row count. I can tell you that the fronts and the back of the sweater measure 23″ from top of sleeve to hem. There may have been some stretching since I have worn this sweater several times since I made it. Soon after I had posted the pattern, several people made this project with good results. My best suggestion to you is that you work the first front as written and then work the back and the other front so that they are the same number of rows and so that the neck openings match.

       
  23. Melanie

    March 21, 2014 at 2:10 am

    Carol:
    Please accept my apology for saying anything critical. Truly, I didn’t mean to suggest that anything was amiss, I was just trying to figure out how long the sweater is. I was just going to ask you, then I thought I should probably just figure it out myself from the gauge information you had already given, but I couldn’t. So I sent you all my calculations to ask if you could see where I had gone wrong.

    My question about the number of rows in the sleeve & neck shaping was not to insinuate there is anything wrong–it is logical to me that the back could have a different row count from the front. But, I wasn’t certain that was what you meant and I was trying to show you how I got to this question via the calculations, (obviously a bad idea on my part), so please allow me to try again,

    In the back do you mean that the 2 ‘neck shaping’ rows should be included in the 8″ armhole measure or should the armhole be worked to 8″, then after that an additional 2 rows are added for neck shaping?

    In the front, after the 43 ‘body rows’, is there just 8″ total of armhole & neck shaping combined, or should I work the armhole & neck to measure 8″, then add more rows to match the back?

    Again, I’m not suggesting that either way is right or wrong, I just don’t know which way you meant, and I want to try to match your sweater as closely as I can.

    I’m very grateful for your pattern; the quality was immediately apparent and I expected it would be for sale and was ready & willing to buy it. It was not my intent to criticize your design in any way, so please, again, accept my apology for my long examples, calculations, poorly written questions and negative connotations, and if you are willing, please just delete it from your blog, and this one as well. :)

    Melanie

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      March 21, 2014 at 4:37 am

      Hi again Melanie, The armholes on the back and on the fronts should be worked to 8″ and then you add the neck shaping. Since the yarn I used stretched a little lengthwise, this should make the armholes roomy enough. They measure about 9″ from the beginning of the shaping on my finished sweater. No need to apologize. I had simply come to the end of a long day and was having trouble figuring out what your question was! :-)

       
  24. Melanie

    April 18, 2014 at 1:24 pm

    Thank you for very much for the explanation, and thanks again for publishing your pattern and putting up with all our dumb questions.
    Melanie

     
    • Wolf Crochet

      April 18, 2014 at 2:24 pm

      You’re welcome Melanie. Any time!

       

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