Do not be afraid to try thread! This jacket is worked holding 2 strands of size 10 thread together throughout. Imagine that you are using sport or fingering yarn. Just be sure to pick up both threads with each stitch. Unlike crocheting with a single strand of thread, your work will progress quickly.
I used Woolworth 4 Cord Crochet Thread (polyester) that I found in a big bag at Goodwill. This thread was wonderful to work with. It was durable but a little springy and made a very nice fabric. It’s a shame that this thread has been discontinued because I like it so much better than cotton.
Difficulty: Intermediate
Size: 39″ Bust and 41″ Hips (Hips flare out slightly because of loosness of starting chain. There is no shaping in this jacket.)
Materials: About 2700 yards of size 10 thread, Ecru. Crochet hook size 3.50 E. Stitch markers, (6) 1/2″ buttons, yarn needle
Gauge: With 2 strands held together, 27 stitches and 22 rows = 4″ blocked
Note: You will hold 2 strands of thread together throughout this pattern.
Back
Ch 122. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in inext ch. *Ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch**. Repeat from * to ** to end of chain. Mark as right side of fabric. Turn.
Rows 2-62: Ch 1. sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 chs. Sc in next sc, * ch2, sk 2 chs, sc in next sc **. Repeat from * to ** to end of row. Turn.
Shape Armhole
Row 1: Sl st across 13 sts, placing a sl st into ea sc and into ea ch. End with a sl st in 13th sc. Ch 1, sc in same st, continue to work in pattern to last 13 sts. Sc in next sc. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
Rows 2: Work even in pattern to last sc. Sc into last sc. Leave remaining sl sts unworked. Turn.
Rows 3-43: Work even in pattern. Fasten off.
Right Front
Ch 62. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc into next ch. *Ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch**. Repeat from * to ** to end of chain. Mark as right side of fabric. Turn.
Rows 2-72: Work as for back, making armhole on right side the same way and continuing to work until you have completed 72 rows.
Shape Neck
You will be skipping the first stitch at the neck edge on every row. Your first stitch should always be a sc at the neck edge. When you come back to the neck edge on the next row, your last stitch will always be a sc.
Row 1: Ch 1, sk 1st sc, sc into next ch, ch 1, sk next ch, sc into next sc. Continue in pattern stitch to end of row. Turn.
Row 2: Work in pattern to last (sc, ch 1, sc) group. Sc in next sc, sc in next ch. Leave remaining sc unworked. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, Sk 1st sc, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to end of row. Turn.
Row 4: Work in pattern to last (sc, ch2, sc) group. Sc in next sc,ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch. Leave remaining sc unworked. Turn.
Rows 5-28: Repeat rows 1-4 consecutively.
Rows 29-end: Work even in pattern until front measures the same as back from hem and has the same number of rows. Fasten off.
Left Front
Work as for right front but reverse neck and armhole shaping.
Sleeves (Make 2)
You will be increasing 1 stitch at each end every other row.
Ch 68. Work in body pattern to end of ch. Mark as right side of fabric, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc in next sc. Work pattern to last sc. 2 sc in last sc. Turn
Row 3: Ch 1, sc into ea of 1st 2 sc. Work in pattern to last 2 sc. Sc into ea of last 2 sc. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 1, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 2 sc. Sc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next sc. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 3 sts. Sc in next sc, ch 1, sk next ch, sc in last sc. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 3 sts. Sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in last sc. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc in next sc. Work in pattern to last 4 sts. Sc in next sc, ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in last sc. Turn.
Rows: 8-48: Repeat rows 2 through 7 consecutively, ending with row 5. Turn
Rows: 49-56: Work row 5 evenly until you have worked 56 rows total. Fasten off.
Joining
Block pieces lightly. Weave in all ends. With right sides together, seam shoulder seams together with a whip stitch or crochet together using 1 strand of thread and a small hook. With right sides together, join sleeves to body sections, placing center of top of sleeve at shoulder seam and pivoting at underarm to attach to armhole extension. ( See photo ). With right sides together, sew or crochet sleeve underarm seams and side seams.
Bottom Trim
Attach yarn at outside corner of lower left front. Ch 1, sc in join. *Sc in next ch,sk next ch, sc in next sc** Repeat from * to ** along bottom of jacket. You should end up with 163 sc. If you do not, then go back and add or subtract stitches until you have the right number.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, *sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc** repeat from * to ** along bottom edge to end of row. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, *sc in ea of next 5 dc, sl st in next sc** Repeat from * to ** to last 6 sts. Sc in ea of last 5 dc, sc in last sc. Fasten off.
Front and Neck Edging
Attach yarn on outside bottom corner of right front. Ch 1, sc in join. Sc in next end-of-row (eor), sc in next eor, *sk 1 eor, sc in ea of next 2 eor**. Repeat from * to ** until you have worked 50 sc. Work 2 sc in corner st at bottom of V-neck, work 106 sc around neck to st at bottom of V-neck on left front. 2 sc into corner st of V-neck. Work 51 sc along left front as for right front. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc into ea sc along fronts and neck. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, Sc into 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, (sc into ea of next 8 sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc) 5 times more. 2 sc into next st, sc around neck, working 2sctog at shoulder seams and placing 2 sc into corner st at bottom of V-neck. Sc along left front edge. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1. Sc into ea sc along left front, neck edge, and right front, placing 2 sc into ea ch 2 sp on right front. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 1. Sc into ea st around neck and fronts. Fasten off.
Sleeve Trim
This will be worked in the same manner as the bottom trim with the exception that it will be worked in rounds.
Attach thread at underarm seam of sleeve at wrist on right side. Ch 1, sc in join. Work 48 sc around sleeve as you did for the bottom of the jacket. Join with a sl st to 1st sc. Turn.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in join. *Sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc** Repeat from * to ** around the sleeve edge to last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, join with sl st to 1st sc. Turn.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in join. *Sc in ea of next 5 dc, sl st in next sc** Repeat from * to ** around sleeve to last 5 dc. Sc in ea of last 5 dc. Sl st to join with 1st sc. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends. Block seams and edging. Sew buttons onto left front opposite buttonholes.
Copyright: Carol Wolf, March 2011
Julie Ann Witt
March 19, 2011 at 3:05 pm
I love, love this spring/summer cardigan! I’ve never worked with crochet thread but I’m definitely going to try it because I love this pattern so much
Thanks for all of the great free patterns you pass on to us!
Wolf Crochet
March 19, 2011 at 4:46 pm
Good Julie! Please send me a photo when you finish it. I’d love to feature some of the projects that have resulted from my patterns. As always, let me know if you spot an error.
Lynsey
March 19, 2011 at 7:11 pm
Sorry to bug you again, but when I read your first paragraph about trying thread- are you saying that two strands of size 10 thread works up about the same as one strand of light weight or sports yarn?
Wolf Crochet
March 20, 2011 at 5:13 am
Yes Linsey. Two strands of thread are similar in weight to some sport yarns. They are thicker than fingering yarn but might be just slightly thinner than some sport yarn. If you are thinking of trying a pattern that calls for sport yarn but want to use 2 strands of thread instead, make sure you do a swatch. Also, be aware that thread does not drape as well as yarn so you should choose your pattern carefully.
CarolSpeight
March 19, 2011 at 9:15 pm
I adore this latest pattern!
IF I was over 5-foot tall……I would make it for me.
I will continue to watch.
Wolf Crochet
March 20, 2011 at 5:09 am
Thank you Carol!
Jeanmarie
March 21, 2011 at 11:01 am
Another beautiful and tempting sweater!
I just finished the Airy Drawstring Cardi yesterday and am very, very happy with the results. Thank you for sharing your terrific patterns!
Wolf Crochet
March 21, 2011 at 12:37 pm
Jeanmarie, your cardi came out great! Would you mind if I post your photo of it on my blog with a link to your blog?
jeannine
March 28, 2011 at 8:12 am
I’ m going to enjoy this pattern very much.I will be able to sell this cardigan when i’m done.
Wolf Crochet
March 28, 2011 at 11:16 am
Jeannine, I have a copyright to this pattern. It’s okay to sell what you make from it but please give me credit as the designer.
Antoinette
April 19, 2011 at 1:37 pm
I like all your sweaters but want to make the Ecru Spring jacket. However, my bust size is 34 and would like to make the sweater in a smaller size but do not know how to adjust the pattern. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated
Wolf Crochet
April 20, 2011 at 7:17 am
Antoinette, I get this question all the time! I only make one size because I only make clothing for myself. Look at my reply to Patrice in the comment section of the Melissa Twinset Pattern. You can design your own pattern by making a swatch and figuring out how many stitches and how many rows are in 4″. I always divide by 4 so that I can get the figure for how many stitches and rows are in 1″. Then look at the chart: http://www.apparelsearch.com/definitions/miscellaneous/us_standard_clothing_sizes.htm
This chart gives you the measurements for each size. Figure out how many stitches and rows you need to get to those measurements. Don’t forget your armhole height and depth. You can measure one of your sweaters or look at another pattern in your size to get these measurements. You can write the whole pattern just using math! A calculator makes this easy. Give it a try and good luck!
Mary
March 15, 2012 at 11:19 pm
Was trying to find your awesome designs but nothing comes up on my phone, pictures show but no patterns
Wolf Crochet
March 16, 2012 at 4:29 am
Mary, I am not a techie so I’m not sure why the pattern is not showing up on your phone. You might check with the place where you bought the phone. The pattern loads to my computer and to my Nook with no problem (I don’t have an I phone yet!), and I have not heard this comment before. I hope you can get it straightened out!
Linda
April 2, 2012 at 12:40 am
I am searching for a very small woman’s (sz 2-4) side tie kimona sleeve sweater pattern. Wraps across front and ties on side.
Wolf Crochet
April 2, 2012 at 4:57 am
Sorry, I don’t know of one. You might have to design your own pattern there.
Wolf Crochet
April 2, 2012 at 5:05 am
I found this one on Ravelry. The smallest size is a chest 36″ but you could try a smaller hook.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kimono-cardi
Glennis
April 2, 2012 at 9:32 pm
This little sweater is adorable. Would go with just about anything.
I think I will try it with ecru and off white #10 thread held together.
Thank you for sharing.
Wolf Crochet
April 3, 2012 at 4:36 am
Glennis, I actually did the same thing because I didn’t have enough ecru thread. I used ecru and white together. Hope it works out well!
Dee
April 9, 2012 at 10:53 pm
I’m attempting this ecru spring jacket as my first foray into sweaters, and I’m having trouble interpreting the pattern. I’ve gotten the 62 rows of the back finished (I know, the easiest part!) and am now working into the shaping armhole. I don’t think I’m doing it correctly so I thought I’d stop and ask!! I slip stitched into each st and ch… counted across 13 sc. (which means 39 stitches and chains, right?) did the chain 1, sc in same st, then continued on all the way across counting across 13 sc and doing the ch 1, etc. I’m left with 2 ch and the end sc left of the row? Is this correct? then I turn and work the pattern as though I never stopped working the back, single crocheting in the single crocets and chaining 2 for 41 more rows? If I am completely off, I’m not surprised! If you’d rather answer off blog, my email is tertled @aol.com. Leave out the space
Thanks in advance! This is the furthest I’ve gotten on a big project and I’d REALLY like to finish it!!
Wolf Crochet
April 10, 2012 at 5:15 am
Dee, I didn’t get what you are doing but I will try to rephrase the armhole shaping: Slip stitch into the first 13 chains and stitches, chain 1, single crochet into the same stitch as last slip stitch. Continue to work the the established stitch pattern you used for the back, to the last 13 stitches. Single crochet into the next stitch. Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Turn. When a pattern says “work in pattern”, and you will see this often in crochet instructions, it simply means to return to working the established pattern that you used for the remainder of the project. I hope this helps, if not, I will try something else!
Dee
April 11, 2012 at 11:12 pm
Ok, so I slip stitch ONLY in the first 13 stitches, ch 1, sl st, and then go back to the regular pattern, but I DON’T work the last 13 stitches, but I single crochet in what would be the 13th stitch from the end? Then I turn the work, and go back to the regular pattern, on the previous row minus 12 stitches? I can see how this shapes the arm hole on one side… what about the other side? And thanks for explaining this!!
Wolf Crochet
April 12, 2012 at 5:35 am
Dee, you are correct, You slip stitch over the 1st 13 sts, ch 1, but then you SINGLE CROCHET, not slip stitch, in the same stitch. You leave 12 stitches unworked on the other end, turn, and work back to where you had slip stitched over 12 stitches. Your last single crochet of the pattern in that row will be into the (ch 1, sc in same stitch) that you had worked at the end of those slip stitches. The 12 slip stitches will remain unworked. This is a standard way to make armholes and you will find it in most patterns. I guess I should have expanded on those instructions a bit for new crocheters. I will go back and edit the pattern. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Dee
April 15, 2012 at 12:33 am
I promise, I’ll get it… just want to be clear. The “first 13 stitches and chains” — Am I counting each set of chains and sc as ONE, then the next set of chains and sc as two?? or 1 chain, 2 chain, 3 sc, 4 chain, 5 chain, 6 sc…up to 13? I love how it is coming out, but I don’t want to do the armholes wrong!! Thanks again!
Wolf Crochet
April 15, 2012 at 4:45 am
Dee, If you look at the pattern on the web again, you will see that I have edited the instructions for the back armholes. Each stitch and each chain counts as one stitch so you are right when you say: “1 chain, 2 chain, 3 sc, 4 chain, 5 chain, 6 sc…up to 13?”
Dee
April 24, 2012 at 11:42 pm
Thanks so much! I think I got the back completed correctly! I’m now on the right front. Now I’m wondering, am I working the front, armhole AND neck at the same time? I can’t tell you how silly I feel that I can’t figure this out.
Wolf Crochet
April 25, 2012 at 5:05 am
Yes Dee, you begin shaping the armhole on row 63 and while you are still working on the armhole, you begin shaping the neck on row 73. But since the armhole is just a rectangle and does not have any curves, you shouldn’t have a problem. Your rows are just going to be shorter than when you started at the hem. As you work the neck, you don’t even have to worry about the armhole because you already reduced your row by 12 stitches and you won’t be doing anything else to the front on that side of the work.
Dee
April 25, 2012 at 8:57 pm
I got confused because the directions start again at Row 1 instead of 73.
I’ll give it a try. Thanks!
Wolf Crochet
April 26, 2012 at 5:52 am
Oh! This is standard in pattern writing! I guess it makes it easier to keep track of your row count if you start counting from where you began the armhole instead of from the hem. You’ll find this in waist and neck shaping too. It makes sense when you think about it.
Lisa
April 27, 2012 at 1:43 pm
I really like this pattern, is there an easy way to make it a little smaller.
Wolf Crochet
April 27, 2012 at 4:37 pm
Lisa, you can get your gauge and then crochet the fronts and back to your measurements. You’ll have to adjust the sleeves too. Why don’t you try it? That’s how I learned, by trial and error.
Dee
May 13, 2012 at 11:30 pm
I’ve made it thru the arm hole, and when I was ready to start the neck on the right front, I was at the wrong end to follow the directions. Do I do Rows 2, 3, and 4 and then back to 1? Or have I messed up somewhere and am not where I think I am? Thanks again!!
Wolf Crochet
May 14, 2012 at 8:52 am
Hi Dee, do you mean that you are on the armhole edge instead of the front neck edge? If this is the case, either you or I miscalculated the number of rows that would bring us back to the neck edge. You must be on the neck edge side to work the next row so you have one of two options: you can frog back one row to the neck edge or you can add another row until you are at the neck edge. It depends on how long you want your armhole to be. Whatever you decide to do, make a note of it so you can repeat it for the left front. I’m sorry about this if it was my mistake. This is one pattern I felt that I really had proofread well.
Sheila Smith
June 26, 2012 at 7:26 pm
Mary, I am learning on my first garment with Lustre Sheen instead of crochet thread … followed your measurements and it may come out a bit small for me, but that depends on how the yarn either relaxes or shrinks when washed … will have to send you a photo when done. A lovely design!
Wolf Crochet
June 27, 2012 at 11:07 am
I’d just love to feature a photo of your finished Ecru Spring Jacket Sheila! I hope that the Lustresheen works out well for you. I think that it should.
DeLane
March 19, 2013 at 10:04 pm
I wonder if you could use on strand of size 3 thread. How would this work.
Wolf Crochet
March 20, 2013 at 4:24 am
Delane, when you hold 2 strands of size 10 thread together you are really working with a thread that is sport weight. The size 3 is a tiny bit thinner than sport weight so your garment might come out a little bit smaller. Why don’t you try to work up a swatch to see if it comes near the gauge?